Cruising Chatham Strait and Sitkoh Bay, 8/21/2021, National Geographic Sea Bird
Aboard the
National Geographic Sea Bird
Alaska
National Geographic Sea Bird sailed through the night, through Peril Strait to wake up near Sitkoh Bay. This bay is located in Chichagof Island, and this is where we spent the morning exploring the temperate rainforest by foot. We also deployed the multi-colored kayaks to go for a paddle.
Our first experience in the Southeast Alaska’s temperate rainforest took place between different length hikes. We all walked through an old logging road surrounded by forest. We found dozens of banana slugs, and noticed there were individuals of different colors and patterns. Everyone seemed quite fascinated by the slimy, hermaphroditic decomposers of the forest floor. There are always amazing things to learn from these humble, and apparently simple, mollusks.
After enjoying our first experience in the forest, we sailed out of Sitkoh Bay into Chatham Strait. We enjoyed a sunny day with amazing views. Scanning the water’s surface, we could see some distant blows. As we approached, we realized there were two groups of humpback whales that were apparently feeding. Once we were closer, we confirmed what we had hoped we would find. We found not one, but two groups of cooperatively feeding bubble-netting whales! We spent over two hours watching and listening with the ship’s hydrophone to this amazing spectacle of nature.
Alberto fell in love with nature as a young child. Born and raised in Tampico, Tamaulipas, Mexico, he spent most of his childhood exploring the Chairlel Lagoon and the Tamesi River. Each morning he would patiently wait in his rowboat for sunrise to w...
Ashley was raised in Central Oregon where she spent her childhood ski racing, riding horses, playing classical piano, and working summer jobs on a dude ranch. She then attended the School of Cinematic Arts at the University of Southern California in ...
Today we woke up to a gorgeous day here aboard National Geographic Sea Lion . We had one of those rare days with gorgeous misty clouds hanging low on the waterline that soon burned off to a bluebird day with the sun shining. The spirit of adventure was palpable among the guests and staff as we understand the importance of this place. This is one of the most incredible areas to visit in Southeast Alaska because this is where everything comes to feed. This is the northernmost entrance to the Inside Passage, so all the water entering from the Pacific Ocean needs to rush through this narrow passageway. The continental shelf also rises steeply here, creating something called an upwelling. Nutrient rich water from the bottom of the ocean rises from the seafloor and comes up to the surface. This allows us the ability to see a variety of critters feeding at the surface. Today we were excited to hopefully encounter sea otters, Steller sea lions, bald eagles, and humpback whales. After a delicious breakfast, we hopped into our expedition landing crafts and set out to explore this amazing island chain. We were quickly greeted by nesting gulls, hauled out Steller sea lions, and feeding sea otters. While tucking into a cove, we saw a group of sea otters rafting amongst the bull kelp. A couple even had young pups with them. On our way back, we had a surprise encounter with a humpback whale, which took everyone’s breath away. This was truly a remarkable day. Our afternoon of cruising was filled with laughter and spotting wildlife from the bow of the ship. Our bartenders and crew kept us well fed and hydrated as we sailed into another Southeast Alaskan sunset. This was an unforgettable day on National Geographic Sea Lion , and we can’t wait for what the rest of the week has to offer.
Early this morning, National Geographic Sea Lion continued her journey north, heading towards our morning destination of Pavlof Harbor. Located on the northern end of Chichagof Island, this sheltered anchorage at the entrance of Freshwater Bay, a much larger inlet that cuts deeply into Chichagof Island, has been historically important to Native and non-native peoples for many generations. The Tlingit from Angoon used this site as a summer campsite. Families spent the summer and fall harvesting from the land and sea, building up supplies for the winter. These traditions have been active among the Angoon Tlingit for thousands of years. Non-native people used this site for its easy access to freshwater and to trade with the Tlingit for furs and food supplies. Pavlof Harbor was originally called Gavan Pavlof, named by Russian fur traders in 1849. We spent the morning exploring by both land and sea. Groups were divided, and as some people went out to kayak, others headed into the forest to explore the fortress of the brown bear! Chichagof Island is part of a group of islands known as the ABC islands, famous for the size of their brown bear populations. Bears spend time here at Pavlof because of the small river and waterfall that accesses a small lake. Three species of salmon use these waters for spawning. This draws many people who visit to see bears, salmon, and the unique environment in the rich temperate rainforests of Alaska, which is created through cooperation and the sharing of resources. Leaving the beach behind, we dipped under the canopy of Sitka alders, western hemlocks, and Sitka spruces into a quiet, shaded landscape covered by diverse and unusual shrubs and plants. Very little rain has come to Southeast Alaska during this early summer. As we were wrapped in the soft greens of the rainforest, tiny spots of color began to show…many, many strands of spotted coralroot. This unusual orchid, a saprophyte, decorated the forest floor. Coralroot orchids are nearly leafless and primarily live on dead organic matter and the roots of other plants with the help of mycorrhizal fungi. While half of our group explored the forest, the other half jumped into kayaks and explored the shoreline of Pavlof Harbor. Halfway through the morning, our groups changed from sea to land activities and vice versa. Each group took time to explore. Just before lunch, we all returned to National Geographic Sea Lion to enjoy our midday meal. After lunch, the staff and bridge crew began a serious lookout for whales! By late afternoon, we were all called to the bow after a group of humpback whale blows were spotted. For the next two hours, we watched humpback whales as they engaged in bubble net (or cooperative) feeding! In a small area of water, we followed back and forth as the whales surfaced, breathed, and dove….just over three minutes later, they all surfaced with mouths agape, taking in large quantities of water and small schooling fish. It was a magnificent sight seen in few places on the planet. It was a gorgeous afternoon with sunshine, light breezes, and humpback whales working hard for a daily meal in their summer habitat! As the afternoon passed to early evening, we gathered in the lounge for cocktails and hors d’oeuvres. Our staff began our first recap, a Lindblad tradition each evening during cocktail hour. As the first staff member began her talk, we saw the expedition leader step to the phone behind the bar. Moments later, the announcement was made, “Killer whales off the bow!” The entire lounge emptied as everyone made their way outside for a rare sighting of killer whales. What a first day, and there is still so much more to explore in a place where the forests and mountains fall directly into the sea, and the summer sun gives us at least 19 hours of light each day. Who knows what surprises and gifts from the natural world will grace our paths as we continue our journey?
As the sun rose on the third day of this expedition aboard National Geographic Sea Lion , we pulled into the harbor of the charming town of Haines, Alaska. Today’s itinerary let our guests “choose their own adventure,” with several different excursions as possible activities to choose from in both the morning and afternoon. Ranging from rafting in the receding tide in the Chilkat River to soaring through the clouds in a sight-seeing plane above Glacier National Park, we had a thrilling day of adventures that concluded with an appetizing dinner back onboard. We ended the night excited to continue our adventures tomorrow, exploring the untouched wilderness of the Inian Islands.
