When George Vancouver sailed these waters, he saw the land as remote and forbidding; today with blue skies and calm waters, Desolation Sound’s waters were peaceful and gorgeous.  We used Zodiacs, kayaks and stand up paddleboards to explore Prideaux Haven’s countless islets and inlets, and we found oystercatchers, kingfishers, harbor seals, moon jellies, and sea stars.  In Tenedos Bay we walked among sword ferns and red cedars to Unwin Lake.