Española: Gardner Bay & Punta Suárez, 4/21/2019, National Geographic Endeavour II
Aboard the
National Geographic Endeavour II
Galápagos
Today National Geographic Endeavour II reached the oldest island of the archipelago, Española. Like San Cristobal, this island harbors a few endemics only found on Española. For example, today we observed the Española mockingbird, the Española lava lizard, and the Christmas iguana. We also saw waved albatross. These magnificent birds nest only on Española, and April is the month during which couples come to mate.
In the morning, we snorkeled around Gardner Islet and swam with sea lions, and afterwards, we visited a beautiful sandy beach. In the afternoon, we visited Punta Suarez, where many sea birds nest. We even observed a nest of the Galápagos hawk as we returned to our ship. Española never fails to amaze me—it is a paradise for the observation of wildlife.
Luis arrived in the Galápagos Islands for the first time when he was 11 years old in 1983, and from that time on he knew that Galápagos would one day be his home. He returned to the islands in 1995 and spent 14 months camping in a tent. Seven of thos...
We started the day with excitement as we landed on the beautiful, pristine coast of Isla Genovesa - a true birder’s dream. Along the sandy beaches and steep cliffs of Darwin Bay, we were surrounded by an incredible array of birdlife. Frigatebirds soared closely overhead with their red pouches on full display, while Nazca and blue-footed boobies nested along the rocky ledges. Swallow-tailed gulls called out as we walked past. In the distance, we saw the stoic and elusive short-eared owl. The island was alive with color, sound, and constant movement. Between our excursions to Isla Genovesa, we snorkeled near Prince Philip’s Steps and discovered a vibrant world beneath the waves. Schools of fish swirled around us, a fur seal turned in the water as if dancing on cue, and sea lions relaxed nearby. As our last snorkeling adventure came to a close, we spotted a sea turtle resting calmly in a crevice. As the sun retreated into the sky on our last return to National Geographic Endeavor II, we reflected on the sheer magnitude of what we witnessed on our last full day. Isla Genovesa, like the other islands, gave us a connection to a sacred world. The harmony between land, sea, and sky reminded us how deeply interconnected, vital, and fragile these ecosystems are. Watching birds tend to their nests and marine life swim effortlessly, we were struck by how little space there is between wonder and reverence. We recognized that our journey wasn’t just about observing unique wildlife, it was about feeling part of something grander and beautifully ancient.
Today’s expedition began with a morning visit to the dramatic Sullivan Bay lava field on Santiago Island. Guests explored the intricate patterns of the pāhoehoe lava flow, observing its rope-like formations and scattered pioneer plant life—offering a vivid lesson in volcanic geology and ecological succession. In the afternoon, we hiked to the Bartolomé viewpoint, where we were rewarded with one of the most iconic landscapes in the Galápagos. From the summit, the stunning contrast of Pinnacle Rock, turquoise waters, and surrounding volcanic islands reflected the archipelago’s raw beauty and geological history.
Sadly, our expedition aboard National Geographic Gemini is nearing its end. Our day began with a hike at the base of towering cliffs. A steep ascent led us to a plateau of a palo santo forest, sparse and otherworldly. Almost immediately, we were surrounded by red-footed boobies nesting in low trees and Nazca boobies on the ground. A highlight was spotting a short-eared owl perched silently among a lava crevice, camouflaged and hunting storm petrels. The calls of frigatebirds rang in the air, with their inflated red pouches on full display in a mating show. After our hike we enjoyed water activities, such as kayaking along the cliffs and snorkeling. In the late afternoon, we landed on the coral sand beach of Darwin Bay. Guests enjoyed a relaxing stroll along the shoreline bordered by mangroves and nesting bird colonies. The presence of swallow-tailed gulls, lava herons, and marine iguanas provided excellent photo opportunities.
