The Islas Ballestras are now protected as a wildlife sanctuary but they were once the source of tons of valuable nitrate that was used in fertilizers. We boarded the Caledonian Star's fleet of Zodiacs and enjoyed a slow cruise around two of the whitewashed islands which, we found, were not only covered with seabirds of all kinds but were also populated with clamoring South American sea lions.
Hundreds and thousands of Peruvian boobies were perched on the steep cliffs of the islands. Lovely gray and white moustached Inca terns lined the many caves and dark undercut ledges. Cormorants nested on the decaying remains of the guano industry's docks and buildings and flocks of white and gray Franklin's gulls (which are vacationing, like us, from the northern hemisphere) rose and wheeled above us as we approached them.
And sea lions were every where! Draped on the rocks in uncomfortable looking positions, and posed with their noses to the sky. Immense blubbery males were surrounded by females half their size and moms nursed pups only a few months old. We spied several small pups swimming close to their mothers in the choppy green sea. Most impressive of all however, was the magnificent chorus of sea lion-produced sounds that echoed off the walls of the caverns where the sea lions had aggregated by the hundreds to hide from the sun. We heard the sea lions' clamor before we saw them and their strange symphony was the last noise we heard as the ship's anchor was hauled up and we headed away.
Later at Isla Chicha, we were treated to a spectacular sunset show. Hundreds of thousands of seabirds were returning from the fertile feeding waters of the Humboldt Current and vying for a spot to roost on the barren island. To end a delightful day we sipped wine while wine educator Arel Wente tested us on wine related trivia.
