Cedro Caño, Flor de Castaña and Supay Caño
Today was a day of exploration. Only one member of the natural history staff team had visited any of our chosen sites for the day, and that was for the first time only two weeks ago. So very excited, we set off at 0600 on an early morning birding outing up what we have named “Cedro Caño” (“Cedar creek”), for the large island nearby in a bend of the Ucayali River. Last night we left the Marañon and have steadily since made our way upriver. Once our skiffs left the main, muddy, strong, Ucayali, we entered another world. There were no banks to speak of, since the high river level has flooded all in this area. Without naming them all here, we added easily another 20 species to our list, including two of my all-time favorites from the Amazon: the swallow-tailed kite (TEN perched in a tree), and the paradise tanager, who for once, didn't flit off in a blink of the eye. Even a ferruginous pygmy owl was still awake at this early hour and sat for photographer's long lenses (it was so small!), which could also be said of the bat falcon, normally a crepuscular hunter at dawn and dusk. The mirrored reflections were a delight to behold, and the warm morning light gave us all rose-tinted glasses. We departed reluctantly from “Cedro cano”, returning on board for breakfast.
Afterwards, we set off to explore another location whose entrance was barely discernible – without knowing of its existence, one could easily pass it by. Only at high water levels is this accessible, and after twisting our way along a super-narrow creek, we popped out into a forest of bare trees, starkly reflected in still, tea-colored water. Both tityra species were spotted, including one nesting hole. At another time of year, it would be up in the tree, but at this time, it was perfectly at eye level, as the skiff wandered among the tree-tops, not down below. A sand-colored nighthawk slept still on a branch, dusky titi monkeys sounded off somewhere in the forest, squirrel monkeys stretched out for insect snacks among some leafy vines.
The final objective of our morning was to stop by and visit the small village “Flor de Castana.” This means “brazilnut flower”, and sure enough there were fresh brazilnuts to be had. In a demonstration of the hardness and difficulty of opening a brazilnut fruit, one of our local experts, Reny, used a machete for quite a while before we could enjoy the results of his labor – sweet, tasty, fresh brazilnuts! Something else growing nearby were the original tubers from which tapioca derives. Known as “cassava” or “manioc,” a young boy of the village did us the favor of pulling one young plant out of the ground so all could see the manner and the methods used for harvesting this extremely important food crop. Nearby was an old dugout canoe where the villagers had been making manioc flour (mix with water and let sit for a few days; place in bags and squeeze the excess water; sieve through a fine mesh; place in a huge pan over a hot fire; stir and stir, and stir for many hours until toasted; use like oatmeal, in many ways, in breads, drinks, or fermented into an alcoholic beverage (none available at that time).
Back on board we had some time to shower and relax while the Delfin II traveled further upriver towards our afternoon destination. We have on board the Cary Institute of Ecosystem Studies, and their president, Bill Schlesinger gave a presentation before lunch on the role rain forests play in global carbon sequestration. Later, the wildlife list was taken care of, lunch was had, and the obligatory “siesta” obeyed without qualm.
By 3:30pm we were prepared once more to head out, this time to a small river named “Supay Cano,” meaning the “Devil's Creek.” Interestingly enough, something other-worldly DID occur on this exploration: we encountered a flock of over one-hundred sand-colored night hawks in the air. After turning off the engine and simply drifting, even then we couldn't hear a thing. Flying low overhead they spiraled without calling, without sound. A family of plum-throated cotingas were a highlight for most, as was the capped heron. “Tickers,” “twitchers” (i.e. the serious birders) had been offered a separate skiff, and the others who were equally interested in everything and anything, took off in another, fishing poles (and beer) included.
On return to the ship I was informed the office had called to leave the announcement that the Organization of American States (OAS) had today bestowed on Peruvian cuisine the status of Cultural Heritage! In honor of this important designation, before dinner we not only learned how to make the national drink, Pisco Sours, but had a variety of excellent Peruvian appetizers to try as well, all shared with the understandably proud Delfin II crew. And dinner followed!
