Rio Dorado and Rio Zapote
In the Amazon basin, discussions of wildlife usually involve talking about both the diversity of life and the abundance. Plant diversity is the highest on earth, and nearly every piece of land above the river level is covered by a thick forest. Massive trees are draped with epiphytes and vines, forming a very dense mass of vegetation. In times of low water, like now, wildlife is concentrated on the many tributaries. Vast areas that are flooded for much of the year are now dry, and thus many different creatures move alongside the remaining areas of water.
Today we explored two very incredible tributaries, the Rio Dorado and the Rio Zapote. Both have narrow, shallow entrances that our experienced skiff drivers navigated us through. Then these entrances open up to a gradual flowing waterway lined with amazing vegetation. Fish continually jump and are regularly seen eaten by various birds including cormorants, egrets, and kingfishers. A few caiman are spotted on the edge, warming in the sun. Sloths are abundant along these stretches, many simply curled into a ball, but others in the top of the canopy, catching the rays to help in digestion. One is even seen in some sort of tantric yoga pose.
And of course, there are monkeys. Tiny saddleback tamarins stare back at us with their white faces. An early-morning feast of sap was a good way for them to wake up. Large troops of squirrel monkeys are entertaining as they move through the forest. While searching for a varied diet of fruits and large insects, there is usually a group of birds following along. Massive jumps between trees are always impressive. A large, furry monk saki was certainly a treat, relaxing on a massive branch with the setting sun.
We stayed far up in the reserve on the Rio Zapote until dark, and slowly made our way back down. Great potoo, spectacled caiman, many bats, Boat-billed herons and common parauques highlighted the amazing diversity. But the real beauty was being in this amazing place in the dark, listening to the chorus of noises, and enjoying the natural light show of fireflies and distant blasts of lightning.
