Port Lockroy and Dallmann Bay

After our fourth transit of the Lemaire Channel the ship spent the night moving backwards and forwards across the southern end of the Gerlache Strait. Most of us were probably unaware of it but just an hour before turning north for Port Lockroy the wind had picked up to 40 knots which caused choppy seas even in these confined waters.

Within the harbour of Port Lockroy we were more sheltered and Endeavour anchored just off the western end of Goudier Island and the old British Base “A,” now an official Historic Site and Monument designated through the Antarctic Treaty System.

Port Lockroy was discovered by the French explorer Charcot, exactly 100 years ago, in February 1904. Then 40 years later the base was established as part of the wartime Royal Navy expedition called Operation Tabarin. Abandoned in 1962, the site became derelict but was cleaned up 8 years ago and is now one of the most visited places in Antarctica.

The three men who live on the base for the four month summer period were invited on board before our visit. As living conditions there are fairly spartan they welcomed the opportunity and started the day with a hearty ships breakfast.

The Zodiacs were soon running ashore to visit the historic site and to nearby Jougla Point where gentoos and a small colony of blue eyed shags were nesting. There was also evidence of the whaling days, the period 1911 to 1931. The skeleton of a baleen whale has been assembled, making us aware of how big these magnificent creatures are. The visit to the old base was fascinating with many reminders of life in the 1950’s. The old wind-up gramophone and the ‘78’ records of Noel Coward and Flanagan and Allan. The small shop housed in the old generator room with the official post office. How long will it be before our postcards reach home?!

The visit finished at midday, and so back to Endeavour for lunch. After saying farewell to the Port Lockroy team, the ship was soon heading round the corner and into the Neaumayer Channel, another of the peninsulas scenic routes.

Dave Baker then gave us an interesting account of his time at McMurdo Station as part of Operation Deep Freeze in 1956.

Our point of leaving the peninsula was Dallmann Bay. The weather was more Antarctic like with low gray cloud and flurries of light snow showers, there were plenty of whale sightings to keep us busy though, minkes and humpbacks appeared as if to say farewell. Following dinner the ship nosed her way out into the Drake Passage and we were soon feeling the long swell as Endeavour put her bows northbound and the open sea.