“Shackleton was here” is a bit of a theme on this expedition, most of all because we actually have been sailing in the wake of what may be considered the most remarkable explorer of the heroic era (1890-1917). On this windless morning we retraced his footsteps as we challenged the three mile long, last leg of the Shackleton walk from the shore of Fortuna bay, ascending a rivulet gully 600 feet, crossing the undulating plateau and descending a steep scree slope into the lush green u-shaped valley at the head of Stromness’ bay. It was a bit of a trek, but as we stood at the edge of the plateau and the land unfolded in front of us there was no regret. A herd of about 40 reindeer slowly grazed their way along the slopes and along the meandering river, while at the bottom, groups of molting gentoos were scattered. A King penguin quartet solemnly paced the grass along the river bed, heading who knows where. To the right hand side of the shore lie the dilapidated remains of the old whaling station. This was the goal for Shackleton’s perilous crossing of the island. It looks spooky, as dead as the industry itself, but at a closer look it is full of life. In among the rusty sheds and fuel tanks the enchanting fur seal pups bark, whine and play between the enormous snorting cocoons of sleeping elephant seals in molt.
Our last few landings and Zodiac cruises have been rich in wildlife, notably fur seal pups. In the wake of the depleted whale populations the very few seals which survived the 19th century sealing have been offered a food surplus which has granted them an unrivalled breeding success. There may well be three times the population of these aquatic ballet dancers than was originally supported by the rich waters around South Georgia. You may well talk about a fur-clad beach in Stromness!
