Aitcho and Deception Islands, South Shetland Islands
Arrival to Antarctica! The dreaded Drake Passage did nothing to uphold its reputation today, and we gained an extra day at the white continent. An ancient mariner, a true old man of the sea – a much whitened and enormous wandering albatross – circuited repeatedly around the Endeavour. Its elongate eleven foot wingspan rode close to the rail, leading us in to the South Shetland Islands, the volcanic archipelago that parallels the whirl of the Antarctic Peninsula.
Before we would made landfall the ocean wanderer guided us to a “phantasmagoric” scene. Among large and beautiful icebergs, we came upon no less than four species of whales before us at the same time. Humpbacks were throwing themselves out of the water as killer whales rode alongside Antarctic minke whales and large finback whales surfaced beyond. One hardly knew where to look, or better put, one only need look anywhere. This exciting and pleasingly confused scene demonstrated the bounty of the Southern Ocean in austral summer, confirmed by krill patches picked up by the ship’s depth sounder.
All life in ice-covered Antarctica is dependent on the ocean’s resources for survival, and the chinstrap and gentoo penguins we saw nesting on Aitcho Island this afternoon are no exception. Incoming birds leapt up onto the beach, laden with fresh loads of krill to trade parental duties with their nest-mates. Penguins made steep snowy climbs to nesting colonies commanding long views of grounded tabular icebergs in the water below.
We watched scenes of life and death with amazement – gentoo chicks hatching from eggs and being nuzzled by a parent and brown skuas scooping down into the colony snatching penguin chicks for their meal. Taking long walks or just taking it in, we were afforded a look into the brief window of opportunity in summer for ocean-dependent propagation of life here in Antarctica. Three species of seals – southern elephant, leopard and crabeater – were also seen, on shore and on nearby ice floes in this enlivened environment.
Taking advantage of a midnight sunset, we coursed south along the South Shetlands to a late evening landing at crescentic and volcanic Deception Island. Here we pondered the rusted remains of a 20th century whaling station; making our morning’s whale experiences even more important.
Having crossed over easily from Tierra del Fuego, from the bottom of one world to another, tomorrow we will start what was supposed to be our first day in Antarctica. We could consider today’s experiences more than just mere serendipity.
Arrival to Antarctica! The dreaded Drake Passage did nothing to uphold its reputation today, and we gained an extra day at the white continent. An ancient mariner, a true old man of the sea – a much whitened and enormous wandering albatross – circuited repeatedly around the Endeavour. Its elongate eleven foot wingspan rode close to the rail, leading us in to the South Shetland Islands, the volcanic archipelago that parallels the whirl of the Antarctic Peninsula.
Before we would made landfall the ocean wanderer guided us to a “phantasmagoric” scene. Among large and beautiful icebergs, we came upon no less than four species of whales before us at the same time. Humpbacks were throwing themselves out of the water as killer whales rode alongside Antarctic minke whales and large finback whales surfaced beyond. One hardly knew where to look, or better put, one only need look anywhere. This exciting and pleasingly confused scene demonstrated the bounty of the Southern Ocean in austral summer, confirmed by krill patches picked up by the ship’s depth sounder.
All life in ice-covered Antarctica is dependent on the ocean’s resources for survival, and the chinstrap and gentoo penguins we saw nesting on Aitcho Island this afternoon are no exception. Incoming birds leapt up onto the beach, laden with fresh loads of krill to trade parental duties with their nest-mates. Penguins made steep snowy climbs to nesting colonies commanding long views of grounded tabular icebergs in the water below.
We watched scenes of life and death with amazement – gentoo chicks hatching from eggs and being nuzzled by a parent and brown skuas scooping down into the colony snatching penguin chicks for their meal. Taking long walks or just taking it in, we were afforded a look into the brief window of opportunity in summer for ocean-dependent propagation of life here in Antarctica. Three species of seals – southern elephant, leopard and crabeater – were also seen, on shore and on nearby ice floes in this enlivened environment.
Taking advantage of a midnight sunset, we coursed south along the South Shetlands to a late evening landing at crescentic and volcanic Deception Island. Here we pondered the rusted remains of a 20th century whaling station; making our morning’s whale experiences even more important.
Having crossed over easily from Tierra del Fuego, from the bottom of one world to another, tomorrow we will start what was supposed to be our first day in Antarctica. We could consider today’s experiences more than just mere serendipity.
