Sandefjord, Coronation Island

Wildlife and scenic diversity is a calling card of Antarctica. This morning the Endeavour visited the west end of Coronation Island which lies in the South Orkney group some 250 miles east of the Antarctic Peninsula. We were blessed with still air and calm waters. There was fog in the distance but no precipitation to spoil our view of over three quarters of a million chinstrap penguins, hundreds of ice bergs, 5 species of pinniped, and many flying seabirds. Once the ship anchored our Expedition Leader Matt Drennan surveyed the landing site and made the decision that the number of Antarctic fur seals was too numerous to have guests ashore. The fur seal was almost expurgated from these waters in less than a decade during the 1820’s, their comeback in numbers is astounding. Without a safe landing we quickly launched the kayaks for some while others enjoyed Zodiac cruises along the rocky, odiferous, noisy, colorful coastline. For as far as we could see up the hills and cliffs of the Pomona Plateau as it disappeared into the overcast, there were thousands and thousands of chinstrap penguins.

Whether the experience was from a kayak of two or a Zodiac of ten, the visual feast of shapes, tones, hues, and movement was unforgettable. The struggle of life took place as many kayaks and Zodiacs had the chance to see the great leopard seal, hunter of penguins, do their gruesome best. Some of the largest leopard seals (females can weigh upwards of 1000 pounds) were seen satiating themselves on the penguins as they make their way to the krill rich waters. A few Zodiacs continued into the large collection of icebergs that were grounded just off shore. There we saw the improbable threesome pictured above. In the background is the fore mentioned Antarctic fur seal. The largest animal is a leopard seal, the other a crabeater seal. The improbability arises because the leopard seal has been seen attacking and devouring both crabeater seals and fur seals. On this day they all seemed content with each others company.

Along the coast two more species, the southern elephant seal and a Weddell seal were lounging in a small bay. Five seal species and incredible displays of behavior, a very good day indeed.