Aran Islands

The Aran Group consists of three rocky outcrops known as Inisheer, Inishmann, and Inishmore, Gaelic names which mean respectively the eastern, middle and large island. The M.S. Endeavour anchored off Inishmore and shortly after breakfast our explorations of this treasure trove of archaeological remains began. Lying to the west of Galway Bay, Inishmore was first inhabited in prehistoric times when hunter-gatherers collected shellfish along its seashore over 8000 years ago. In the Early Christian Period a missionary named St. Enda established a tiny stone oratory around which a monastery was to flourish for many centuries. However, the island is known for one of the most impressive prehistoric monuments in Europe, namely Dun Aengus. This huge stone hillfort consists of three curvilinear walls enclosing an area of some 14 acres the first building phase of which can be dated to the latter part of the Bronze Age ca. 1500 BC. The fort is also associated with the Iron Age Celts who had arrived in Ireland by the third century BC. Outside the middle defensive wall is a deep band of closely set stone pillars jutting up out of the ground, the function of which was to impede a surprise attack by enemies. Perched on a 300-foot cliff the hillfort was perfectly defended on its seaward side.

The three Aran Islands and neighboring county Clare on the mainland consist of Carboniferous limestone, a sedimentary rock which formed on a sub-tropical sea bed some 340 million years ago. Known as a Karst area we saw many fine examples of limestone pavements with their clints and grykes formed by the solution of the rock by rainwater, a weak carbonic acid. In historic times the inhabitants of these islands made soil to cover the bare exposed limestone by mixing seaweed and sand and in this way over a long period small fields surrounded by drystone walls were created. A hard life in these tiny fields was supplemented by an equally hard life on the Atlantic. Wearing the distinctive woolen Aran sweaters the men would fish the surrounding rich waters in canvas covered boats known as currachs.

One of the more common species that is found are members of the family Scyliorhinidae, commonly known as cat sharks. Pictured above is the lesser spotted dogfish (Scyliorhinus canicula). This resident of continental shelf waters can be found predominantly around the southern and western British Isles. Distinguishing characteristics include nostril flaps that are almost completely joined to each other forward of the mouth, countershaded coloration being sandy to brown on the dorsal side with small black scattered dots, and a pale white ventral side. The large eyes help to find prey at night when the lesser-spotted dogfish is most active.

Following lunch we cruised the waters close to the Cliffs of Moher a huge wall of rock made up of alternating strata of sandstone and shale which formed during the closing stages of the Carbonlferous Period. Many species of seabird find excellent breeding sites on the ledges formed by the erosion of the softer shale, which leaves the more resistant sandstone jutting out.

To cap this wonderful day we went ashore onto Inishbofin , a small island off the Connemara coast of County Galway. Here we went to explore the ruined castle of the Irish pirate queen, Grase O’Malley.