Kerry, Ireland
We awoke this morning to find the gentle hills of Ireland on our horizon. It was with much anticipation that we approached the South Western coast of Kerry and then saw the soaring form of Skellig Michael emerge from the morning haze.
Soon those who were going ashore at the landing place were on their way while those who felt unable to deal with the swell remained aboard the Endeavour and were given a running commentary on the monastic cells which were clearly visible hundreds of feet above the ocean and on the endless series of passing birds as the various gulls, auks, fulmars and gannets flew by, often seemingly within arm’s reach.
Meanwhile, those who went ashore were on their way up the hundreds of ancient steps that lead to the monastic settlement far above the ocean. The slopes were like hanging gardens, with their great blankets of sea campion out through which puffins appeared from hidden burrows. They frequently just stood there and simply observed the intruders before flying off on whirring wings. At intervals the strange choking sounds made by manx shearwaters could be heard from hollows beneath surrounding boulders, and it was strange to think that these same birds will winter in the South Atlantic off the coast of Brazil.
Further up, and especially among the beehive-shaped monastic cells, the small, stuttering calls of the European storm-petrels could be heard in response to the sound of passing human voices.
Far below there were rafts of guillemots, razorbills and puffins on the sea while kittiwake calls echoed back from the great cliffs.
We later passed close to the huge gannetry – 27,000 pairs at last count – before sailing in along Kenmare Bay which led to a wonderful visit to Muckross House in Killarney set amid verdant countryside in one of the most beautiful parts of Ireland. A splendid day in a splendid setting!
We awoke this morning to find the gentle hills of Ireland on our horizon. It was with much anticipation that we approached the South Western coast of Kerry and then saw the soaring form of Skellig Michael emerge from the morning haze.
Soon those who were going ashore at the landing place were on their way while those who felt unable to deal with the swell remained aboard the Endeavour and were given a running commentary on the monastic cells which were clearly visible hundreds of feet above the ocean and on the endless series of passing birds as the various gulls, auks, fulmars and gannets flew by, often seemingly within arm’s reach.
Meanwhile, those who went ashore were on their way up the hundreds of ancient steps that lead to the monastic settlement far above the ocean. The slopes were like hanging gardens, with their great blankets of sea campion out through which puffins appeared from hidden burrows. They frequently just stood there and simply observed the intruders before flying off on whirring wings. At intervals the strange choking sounds made by manx shearwaters could be heard from hollows beneath surrounding boulders, and it was strange to think that these same birds will winter in the South Atlantic off the coast of Brazil.
Further up, and especially among the beehive-shaped monastic cells, the small, stuttering calls of the European storm-petrels could be heard in response to the sound of passing human voices.
Far below there were rafts of guillemots, razorbills and puffins on the sea while kittiwake calls echoed back from the great cliffs.
We later passed close to the huge gannetry – 27,000 pairs at last count – before sailing in along Kenmare Bay which led to a wonderful visit to Muckross House in Killarney set amid verdant countryside in one of the most beautiful parts of Ireland. A splendid day in a splendid setting!
