Glencoe, Glen Nevis & Laggan
A brilliant blue, most unusual sky, arched over us as we approached the area known as Glencoe. Ben Nevis, the highest point on the British Isles at 1,343 meters or 4,406 feet, had snow on top shining in the sun! Whoever left the piano up there years ago, had probably hoped for a day such as ours, but most likely played in the rain.
Before stopping at the new Glencoe Visitor’s Centre, we went up the valley for an overview first. On one side of the road a pair of golden eagles were flying back and forth across the face of a mighty granite cliff. For a brief moment one perched in the nest just above a small bush growing out of a fissure in the wall. Our driver, John, has been following their progress here since March.
On the other side of the road, we were faced by a spectacular view over the valley and the facing “munros” (any mountain over 3,000 feet in Scotland). “Glencoe” has been translated as “glen of weeping” or “narrow glen”. “Glen” itself means valley, and for being the site of a massacre in 1692, I lean towards the first possibility.
These mountains were created when tectonic plates collided, volcanoes erupted, plates moved from tropical latitude to desert latitude to the present 56 degrees north position. It even includes a geologically brief moment when they flirted with the North American plate during the time of the dinosaurs! Etched by glaciers over 5,000 feet thick during the last ice age, the U-shaped valley left behind when the climate warmed sparkled this morning, seemingly just for us.
Those that walked in Glen Nevis on the flanks of the mighty mountain tackled a steeper trail but couldn’t have asked for better conditions. After one thousand feet of gain, resting on the remnants of a fortress on a knoll, an almost 270 degrees view was had as a reward.
For the afternoon I put on my very best walking shoes and struck out along the tow path which parallels the Caledonian Canal in the part called “The Great Glen Way”. Once again our good karma held fast and the day remained sunny with a light breeze. This segment of around seven miles from Banavie to Gairlochy is a walkers dream; an even, flat dirt road with shade trees along one side, and rippling canal waters on the other. Some of our guests chose to ride bikes instead of walking along this same tow path, and with a bit of coordination, a biker and a walker could have the best of both worlds. Such was my arrangement.
At Gairlochy we watched from shore as Captain Mckie maneuvered the Lord of the Glens with literally inches between the ship and the walls of the Moy swing bridge, and finally into the lock which raised the ship the last eight feet into Loch Lochy. Once completed, the first stage of our transit of the Caledonian Canal came to an end.
A celebration was in order, and so after dinner we paid a visit to the floating pub at Laggan known as “The Eagle”. Docked just a few yards away from our ship, we gathered for “a wee dram” before being surprised by A.J. Johnstone (a.k.a.“Sandy”) who appeared in full regalia and played his bagpipe for us with enthusiasm and skill. Sandy even managed to convince Fritz to take a turn, though Sandy did the finger work necessary to get a good tune out of the instrument. A unique finale to a wondrous day.
Slaínte mhath!
A brilliant blue, most unusual sky, arched over us as we approached the area known as Glencoe. Ben Nevis, the highest point on the British Isles at 1,343 meters or 4,406 feet, had snow on top shining in the sun! Whoever left the piano up there years ago, had probably hoped for a day such as ours, but most likely played in the rain.
Before stopping at the new Glencoe Visitor’s Centre, we went up the valley for an overview first. On one side of the road a pair of golden eagles were flying back and forth across the face of a mighty granite cliff. For a brief moment one perched in the nest just above a small bush growing out of a fissure in the wall. Our driver, John, has been following their progress here since March.
On the other side of the road, we were faced by a spectacular view over the valley and the facing “munros” (any mountain over 3,000 feet in Scotland). “Glencoe” has been translated as “glen of weeping” or “narrow glen”. “Glen” itself means valley, and for being the site of a massacre in 1692, I lean towards the first possibility.
These mountains were created when tectonic plates collided, volcanoes erupted, plates moved from tropical latitude to desert latitude to the present 56 degrees north position. It even includes a geologically brief moment when they flirted with the North American plate during the time of the dinosaurs! Etched by glaciers over 5,000 feet thick during the last ice age, the U-shaped valley left behind when the climate warmed sparkled this morning, seemingly just for us.
Those that walked in Glen Nevis on the flanks of the mighty mountain tackled a steeper trail but couldn’t have asked for better conditions. After one thousand feet of gain, resting on the remnants of a fortress on a knoll, an almost 270 degrees view was had as a reward.
For the afternoon I put on my very best walking shoes and struck out along the tow path which parallels the Caledonian Canal in the part called “The Great Glen Way”. Once again our good karma held fast and the day remained sunny with a light breeze. This segment of around seven miles from Banavie to Gairlochy is a walkers dream; an even, flat dirt road with shade trees along one side, and rippling canal waters on the other. Some of our guests chose to ride bikes instead of walking along this same tow path, and with a bit of coordination, a biker and a walker could have the best of both worlds. Such was my arrangement.
At Gairlochy we watched from shore as Captain Mckie maneuvered the Lord of the Glens with literally inches between the ship and the walls of the Moy swing bridge, and finally into the lock which raised the ship the last eight feet into Loch Lochy. Once completed, the first stage of our transit of the Caledonian Canal came to an end.
A celebration was in order, and so after dinner we paid a visit to the floating pub at Laggan known as “The Eagle”. Docked just a few yards away from our ship, we gathered for “a wee dram” before being surprised by A.J. Johnstone (a.k.a.“Sandy”) who appeared in full regalia and played his bagpipe for us with enthusiasm and skill. Sandy even managed to convince Fritz to take a turn, though Sandy did the finger work necessary to get a good tune out of the instrument. A unique finale to a wondrous day.
Slaínte mhath!
