Isle of Rum & Tobermory, Isle of Mull, Scotland
A quiet night was passed in the protected bay of Kinloch, Isle of Rum. This island is maintained as a National Nature Reserve by Scottish Natural Heritage, caring for herds of wild red deer, otters, and a great variety of birdlife. The most famous of Rum’s wildlife, however, the Scottish Midge, was kept at bay by the gentle rain. The ponies of Rum, however, are a rare and ancient breed, and we were delighted to meet the latest addition to the herd, a three-day-old foal.
Kinloch Castle provides an unexpected contrast to all this nature, an opulent and quirky summer hunting resort built by a wealthy English industrialist for his family and friends between 1897 and 1900. Amongst the many extraordinary artefacts and furnishings was an ‘Orcadian’ – a mechanised pipe organ that serenaded us like a 40-piece orchestra.
At the start of the sea passage from Rum to Mull , the Lord of the Glens was accompanied by porpoises, and by rafts of Manx Shearwaters, seen skimming low over the water. One third of the entire world population of these seabirds make their home on Rum every summer.
Soon we passed by the Hebridean islands of Eigg and Muck, and around Ardnamurchan Point, the most westerly point of the British mainland, with its famous Stevenson lighthouse.
Another lighthouse at Rubha nan Gall told us that the Lord of the Glens would soon be in sight of the lovely town of Tobermory, with its gaily painted houses fringing the sea front. Here we were able to enjoy walks around the winding streets, and through the native woodlands to ‘Bloody Bay,’ where the Lords of the Isles fought a great sea battle in the 1480s.
Today, however, all is peace and tranquillity.
