At Sea

The MS National Geographic Endeavour is on a journey through some of the most beautiful, yet extreme parts of the planet. Here in the Southern Ocean, where some of the most harrowing and adventuresome tales of seamanship have evolved, we follow in the wake of Ernest Shackleton, James Cook, and Nathaniel Palmer, who like us, were intrepid explorers in search of new lands and discovery.

The first leg of our journey is done, having turned east and now leaving the Falkland Islands behind. The Falklands are an extraordinary mix of the civilized and natural world, where one can sit in a pub having a pint and a burger, and the next day be on an uninhabited island with 100,000 pairs of breeding black-browed albatross. For three days we immersed ourselves in the life of the Islands, and for Undersea Specialist, Dennis Cornejo, and me as dive buddy, we quite literally immersed ourselves in the rich waters surrounding these fantastic islands.

Diving in the temperate waters (8ºC) of the Falklands can really fool the senses. At first glance, dropping onto a white sand bottom surrounded by muddled blue water, creates the illusion that it is the Caribbean. The fact that this is the first time Dennis and I have dove in water above the temperature of -2ºC in a month, further promotes the illusion, as the water feels as tropical as it gets on this journey around the Falklands, South Georgia, and Antarctica. However, unlike the Caribbean, the water is full of oxygen and nutrients, allowing the kelp forest to thrive and create a lush bottom environment.

The kelp forest is a world unto its own, and brings back childhood memories (or more recent depending on when the last time you watched Lord of the Rings) of elfish forests. Swimming in between and under kelp the branches and fronds is like a treasure hunt, as concealed colonies of tunicates, sea urchins, brittle stars, and anemones suddenly appear before the eyes, yet with a small surge are obscured once again by the leafy protectors.

Pictured here in the Carcass Island Kelp Forest, is a decorator crab. These crabs, also called spider crabs, take small bits of algae and kelp, decorating their outer carapace as disguise and protection from predators. They are found in huge numbers roaming the waters around the Falkland Islands, feeding on just about anything they can get their claws on, from amphipods to jellyfish.

Our journey upon and under the southern ocean waters has only just begun. South Georgia lies in wait for our exploration, and we hungrily look to the horizon for our next pursuit of the unknown.