Barrentos Island in the South Shetland Group

On the eve of the New Year, we found ourselves on the cusp of an adventure to remember, and on the fringe of the White Continent. After sailing at good speed and with even better sea-conditions through the Drake Passage for the first day and a half of our expedition, we made landfall in the South Shetlands this afternoon at the recently named Barrentos Island. The weather was typical “Shetland-esque;” that is to say, overcast, brisk, and complete with liquid sunshine--but hey, they wouldn’t have named them the South Shetlands if the islands had reminded the early sealers of the Greek Isles! And besides, even a flood wouldn’t have dampened the experience of our first footsteps beneath the Antarctic Convergence. Most of us made this epic journey for the wildlife, and today certainly delivered.

As we waded ashore, we were immediately inundated with all the sights, sounds, and smells of a penguin colony in full bloom, so to speak. Chinstraps coming and going; squawking the whole way, of course. Gentoos busying themselves with the care of their young chics. Skuas circling the perimeter, always looking for an opportunity. The wretched sheathbills digging through the refuse. Southern Giant Petrels patiently waiting for the winds to return. And that was just the birdlife!

We also had humpbacks interrupting our evening recap and toasting the New Year with repeated blows alongside the ship. A curious elephant seal waited for his companions while eyeing the strange red-coated visitors to his favorite wallowing beach. But the highlight for me was undoubtedly the appearance of not one, but three leopard seals. They were found on and swimming near an iceberg; and close enough for a short Zodiac ride to reach en route to the ship. Two males slept rather oblivious to the sudden flurry of activity around them. But the third animal (we think a female) put on quite display of hydrobatic prowess (yes, I invented a new word, but “acrobatic” doesn’t quite do her movements justice - and besides, south of sixty there IS no law!) She repeatedly spy-hopped to check out the penguins and seals on the berg itself, but then also spent a good deal of time cavorting about the Zodiacs as we pulled in closer for our own inspections. She put on quite a show for her newfound audience: spinning and twisting around and under the boats; even splashing and blowing bubbles on occasion. Our undersea team even managed to film some of her exploits below the surface; which barring anymore interrupting humpbacks, they’ll share with us at tomorrow’s recap… just one more thing to look forward to as we head farther south and start 2006 on the continent of Antarctica!

An assist is due to Richard White for keeping the Zodiac steady for the photo!