Andvord Bay, Useful Islands, Errera Channel & Dallmann Bay
We sail into beautiful Andvord Bay towards Neko Harbor under a stiff breeze. The weather is stunning; icebergs are dotted about the bay and the coastline a seemingly endless glacier. The skies are clear and the ice and snow is aglow in the new day brightness. However, due to the strong winds, a landing is not possible. So we head off in a westerly direction to look for an alternative.
Soon, after breakfast, we are off the Useful Islands where the conditions are more favorable and we prepare to go kayaking as well as going ashore. Soon the yellow and gray kayaks are venturing around the marvelously calm waters with penguins porpoising all around us and the occasional iceberg making the experience exquisite. On land we are welcomed by nesting gentoo penguins. Soon we are on our walk to the summit of this picturesque place. As we make our way up we pass huge rounded granite boulders that have been sculpted by glaciers that passed this way a long time ago. The reward at the top is stunning. The warm sunshine bathes and warms us, the sky is almost cloudless and we are surrounded by blue waters and stunning scenery of islands and the mainland, which surrounds us in the distance. Mount Francais rises majestically to the west and it is such a treat to get a rare glimpse of its summit. Icebergs glow in the Gerlache Strait: above water pure white and submerged fabulous turquoises. Many of us sit down and quietly drink this very special moment. Secretly we know that this may well be our last landing in Antarctica and we eke out every last ounce from the experience. We are accompanied by a nesting Antarctic skua and we are witnesses to the changeover at the nests of a gentoo and chinstrap penguin. An elaborate greeting is followed by head bowing and swallowing before the change of guard takes place. The penguins that get off the nest look visibly thinner than the fat birds that just made it all the way up from the shore line. Reluctantly we return to our landing sight and are treated to a good number of snowy sheathbills who have hitched short rides on the Zodiacs.
During lunch we head off for the area of Dallmann Bay where we hope to sight whales. By mid-afternoon a pair of humpback whales are spotted and for the next hour or so we are overwhelmed by the experience of seeing these magnificent mammals feeding, showing their flukes, slapping the water with their flippers, tail lobbing, and cavorting, hearing them breathe with a backdrop of glaciers and steep mountain sides all about us. The decks are crammed with happy snappers and many expressions of amazement at the sheer size of these singing whales and yet so graceful in their movements. What an incredible experience with which to end our incredible Antarctic adventure.
After dinner we head on a course of 329° for South America. The westerly wind picks up to 30 knots and we are surrounded by gentle swells which crash into the bow waves from the ship, creating spray which turns golden in the evening light. Aft of us and south is Cape Grönland on Anvers Island and to the north Cape Metchnikoff on Brabant Island. Many of us go on deck to glimpse views as the snow and ice turn too beautiful golden tones as the sun heads for the horizon.
We sail into beautiful Andvord Bay towards Neko Harbor under a stiff breeze. The weather is stunning; icebergs are dotted about the bay and the coastline a seemingly endless glacier. The skies are clear and the ice and snow is aglow in the new day brightness. However, due to the strong winds, a landing is not possible. So we head off in a westerly direction to look for an alternative.
Soon, after breakfast, we are off the Useful Islands where the conditions are more favorable and we prepare to go kayaking as well as going ashore. Soon the yellow and gray kayaks are venturing around the marvelously calm waters with penguins porpoising all around us and the occasional iceberg making the experience exquisite. On land we are welcomed by nesting gentoo penguins. Soon we are on our walk to the summit of this picturesque place. As we make our way up we pass huge rounded granite boulders that have been sculpted by glaciers that passed this way a long time ago. The reward at the top is stunning. The warm sunshine bathes and warms us, the sky is almost cloudless and we are surrounded by blue waters and stunning scenery of islands and the mainland, which surrounds us in the distance. Mount Francais rises majestically to the west and it is such a treat to get a rare glimpse of its summit. Icebergs glow in the Gerlache Strait: above water pure white and submerged fabulous turquoises. Many of us sit down and quietly drink this very special moment. Secretly we know that this may well be our last landing in Antarctica and we eke out every last ounce from the experience. We are accompanied by a nesting Antarctic skua and we are witnesses to the changeover at the nests of a gentoo and chinstrap penguin. An elaborate greeting is followed by head bowing and swallowing before the change of guard takes place. The penguins that get off the nest look visibly thinner than the fat birds that just made it all the way up from the shore line. Reluctantly we return to our landing sight and are treated to a good number of snowy sheathbills who have hitched short rides on the Zodiacs.
During lunch we head off for the area of Dallmann Bay where we hope to sight whales. By mid-afternoon a pair of humpback whales are spotted and for the next hour or so we are overwhelmed by the experience of seeing these magnificent mammals feeding, showing their flukes, slapping the water with their flippers, tail lobbing, and cavorting, hearing them breathe with a backdrop of glaciers and steep mountain sides all about us. The decks are crammed with happy snappers and many expressions of amazement at the sheer size of these singing whales and yet so graceful in their movements. What an incredible experience with which to end our incredible Antarctic adventure.
After dinner we head on a course of 329° for South America. The westerly wind picks up to 30 knots and we are surrounded by gentle swells which crash into the bow waves from the ship, creating spray which turns golden in the evening light. Aft of us and south is Cape Grönland on Anvers Island and to the north Cape Metchnikoff on Brabant Island. Many of us go on deck to glimpse views as the snow and ice turn too beautiful golden tones as the sun heads for the horizon.
