South Georgia
Apprehension, Excitement, Wonderment – These are all feelings that have been building inside of us for our last two days at sea, to the point we are just about ready to burst. South Georgia, for many of us the pinnacle of our expedition, is a world unto itself. The island was first charted, named, and claimed for Britain by Captain James Cook in 1775. Throughout history it has most notably been home to several international sealing and whaling companies, and in most recent times a site of combat during the Falkland Islands War. Although still encompassed in the Antarctic Convergence, it is a striking contrast to the black and white world of the Antarctic Peninsula. Upon approach from the sea, one cannot help to stand in awe, as the land is diversified by towering snow-capped mountains, lush glacially carved valleys of green low-lying vegetation, and rushing melt water streams.
As we rounded the South Coast on the island in bright sunshine early this afternoon, we were greeted by one of South Georgia’s famous phenomena – katabatic winds. As super cooled air cascades by gravity down the one of the many glaciers topping the island, a powerful wind is generated, far too intense for small boating operations. So we continued on up along the east coast, where killer whales joined us briefly, seemingly escorting us into shelter, and our first landing at Gold Harbour.
Landing onto a beach on South Georgia is like being transported into a Nature Special, and one almost expects to see David Attenborough emerge, explaining the curious ways of the incredible animals we were encountering. This year’s fur seal pups litter the beach. These tiny fellows come out of their mother’s womb fighting, and as they grow larger, getting ready for the trial’s of life to come, they mock charged us constantly while we traveled down the beach. But in truth they aren’t that tough, all it takes is a little glare, or perhaps some hand clapping to scare them off. Elephant Seals snort lazily, lying close to each other, using their neighbor’s heat to help them slough off their dead skin. During the Oct/Nov breeding season these large males fight fiercely to keep their harems to themselves, but even in this time of rest and relaxation their feisty personalities still come to the surface.
However, the one animal that South Georgia is most famous for is the King Penguin. Cousins of the slightly larger Emperor Penguin, these brightly colored birds stand nearly 3 feet tall, towering over any of the penguin species we have seen previously. They are inherently curious, boldly walking up to us, pecking at our boots, trousers, and tripods. Their interaction with each other is just as comical: flipper slapping, probing each other with their beaks, and calling out at the top of their lungs.
As we journey back to the ship by Zodiac, I am not sure the enormity of our first landing has sunk in yet. South Georgia has certainly lived up to all the adjectives we have associated with it, but one can’t help to feel it has many more hidden gems to reveal.
Apprehension, Excitement, Wonderment – These are all feelings that have been building inside of us for our last two days at sea, to the point we are just about ready to burst. South Georgia, for many of us the pinnacle of our expedition, is a world unto itself. The island was first charted, named, and claimed for Britain by Captain James Cook in 1775. Throughout history it has most notably been home to several international sealing and whaling companies, and in most recent times a site of combat during the Falkland Islands War. Although still encompassed in the Antarctic Convergence, it is a striking contrast to the black and white world of the Antarctic Peninsula. Upon approach from the sea, one cannot help to stand in awe, as the land is diversified by towering snow-capped mountains, lush glacially carved valleys of green low-lying vegetation, and rushing melt water streams.
As we rounded the South Coast on the island in bright sunshine early this afternoon, we were greeted by one of South Georgia’s famous phenomena – katabatic winds. As super cooled air cascades by gravity down the one of the many glaciers topping the island, a powerful wind is generated, far too intense for small boating operations. So we continued on up along the east coast, where killer whales joined us briefly, seemingly escorting us into shelter, and our first landing at Gold Harbour.
Landing onto a beach on South Georgia is like being transported into a Nature Special, and one almost expects to see David Attenborough emerge, explaining the curious ways of the incredible animals we were encountering. This year’s fur seal pups litter the beach. These tiny fellows come out of their mother’s womb fighting, and as they grow larger, getting ready for the trial’s of life to come, they mock charged us constantly while we traveled down the beach. But in truth they aren’t that tough, all it takes is a little glare, or perhaps some hand clapping to scare them off. Elephant Seals snort lazily, lying close to each other, using their neighbor’s heat to help them slough off their dead skin. During the Oct/Nov breeding season these large males fight fiercely to keep their harems to themselves, but even in this time of rest and relaxation their feisty personalities still come to the surface.
However, the one animal that South Georgia is most famous for is the King Penguin. Cousins of the slightly larger Emperor Penguin, these brightly colored birds stand nearly 3 feet tall, towering over any of the penguin species we have seen previously. They are inherently curious, boldly walking up to us, pecking at our boots, trousers, and tripods. Their interaction with each other is just as comical: flipper slapping, probing each other with their beaks, and calling out at the top of their lungs.
As we journey back to the ship by Zodiac, I am not sure the enormity of our first landing has sunk in yet. South Georgia has certainly lived up to all the adjectives we have associated with it, but one can’t help to feel it has many more hidden gems to reveal.
