At Sea

Strange. There is always sadness on departure. It is as if one cannot after all bear to leave this bleak waste of ice, glaciers, cold and toil…
- Fridtjof Nansen, 1912


National Geographic Endeavour has turned her stern towards the Antarctic, and now heads North, retracing our original steps to the White Continent, towards “World’s End,” Ushuaia, Argentina. A sense of melancholy has set upon us, and whilst we cannot entirely verbalize it, this is the polar fever; Antarctica draws people in so intensely, it touches the soul.

It has been 10 days of new adventures, each day seeming to top the last. We have experienced the Antarctic, both above and below the ocean’s surface, in ways that may be indescribable to our friends and family at home.

In stark contrast to the black and white world above the surface, Antarctica’s benthic (flora and fauna found on the bottom of the sea) community is riddled with reds, oranges, yellows, and purples. Additionally, the waters of the Antarctic are some of the richest in the world, creating an environment of rich productivity, and support for some of the most delicate of creatures. Anemones and Sponges line the cracks and crevices of rocks, protected from the constant destruction of the ice. Worms and Tunicates take advantage of the “marine snow,” essentially decaying organic material, trapped within the water column, extracting what they can for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

But perhaps it is not the small creatures, sometimes no bigger than a pinhead, which capture your attention. Whales and Seals are abundant in the Antarctic, and despite their size they are some of the most exquisite mammals you may ever see. The Leopard Seal, startling (have you seen the size of their front teeth!), and yet one of the most graceful creatures in the world. She performs a delicate ballet around an ice berg, and the slightest movement of her front or hind flippers sends her in a loop-de-loop, which leaves no doubt as to why she is such a successful predator, but it is mesmerizing.

As with all great adventures, our voyage must come to an end. So with heavy hearts, we look back towards the horizon, hoping for a final glimpse at an ice berg or mountain top. Antarctica has touched us all profoundly, and whether we make the journey to her icy shores again or not, the memories will stay with us for a lifetime.