Northern Svalbard
Yesterday a group of very eager and enthusiastic explorers ventured onto the ship National Geographic Endeavour in Longyearbyen, Norway, setting sail for the true High Arctic.
Some of us were confused about the use of the name Svalbard. Until 1920, the group of islands located north of Norway was called Spitsbergen, the original name given by Wilhelm Barents as he spotted the northwest corner. During the Versailles Treaty conference 1919 – 1920, Norway was given the control of the island through the Svalbard Treaty, and until this date the area was referred as to Spitsbergen. Norway did not take full control of the area until 1925, but by then they urgently wanted to “Norwegianize” the area.
Svalbard is mentioned in the Iceland Sagas, as Vikings sailed north and found land. Iceland was settled by Vikings departing the areas of the Scandinavian Peninsula, which now are located in Norway. We now know, that at least this voyage did not take the Vikings to this area. It was either Jan Mayen or the east coast of Greenland they arrived somewhere before 1194.
During the 1920’s, Norway was pushing hard for gaining control of several parts of the High Arctic. Eastern Greenland was claimed and a governor, Helge Ingstad, was appointed. He was later to be renowned as the finder of the only Viking site in America, L'anse aux Meadows at Newfoundland
The settlement Longyearbyen has a long history of coal mining, and was established by a Pennsylvanian entrepreneur as Longyear City. Last year, 2006, they celebrated their 100th anniversary. Only one mine is still in operation but the main coal field is now located in the next fjord, to the south, Bellsund.
Longyearbyen is positioned far into Isfjorden and it was not until after dinner we were in open sea. A number of birds followed us along the fjord to open ocean, kittiwakes, fulmars, little auks and some thick-billed murres (males) were swimming together with the chicks and heading out into the open sea.
As morning progressed it became more obvious that this was really an expedition. Our expedition leader gave us a briefing about how to deal with this hostile environment. Here the polar bear rules the territory. It is cold, wind can be extreme, and suddenly fog can enclose... Plans will be made and many times changed, as you have to deal with the current conditions on the spot. We also have the 24 hours daylight, which mean that our possibility will be almost endless. Someone asked about sunset, and this will not happen until later part of August. Sunrise was in late April!
In the afternoon as we sailed into one of the fjords on the northern side to Spitsbergen, Woodfjorden, where we spotted our first polar bear. Although distant it was the very first. Later we did a landing by using our fleet of Zodiacs to Sørdalsbukta, on the very northern part of Liefdefjord (Love Bay!).
Place names here at Svalbard are a mix from different periods, since Wilhelm Barrents spotted the island in 1596. Dutch and English whalers were here, and Russian Pomors from the White Sea later to be followed by Norwegian trappers. Many different expeditions have crossed the area and also marked their way, by naming sites.
Woodfjord is easy to explain, as driftwood along the beach is very evident. "Liefdefjord" is maybe more vague, but most likely was a name for a Dutch whaling ship. During our hikes, we did discover some of these historical periods. Remains from a former World War II, German weather station, and a grave of a German soldier did surprise us. Birds like king eider, purple sandpiper and red-throated loon were seen. Those who wanted to kneel down on all fours had spectacular flora to investigate.
Before dinner sun started to break through and we got a full view of the area, as the captain took the ship towards Monaccobreen. Along our route a 2nd polar bear was spotted and now everyone was able to really enjoy this very relaxed bear. Some gulls near the beach, were fighting about the remains from the bear's last meal, a seal. As we came up to the glacier front a swarm with different birds was busy feeding at the river outlet. To end this busy day we also made it to the isolated island Moffen, known to be a good site for walrus. From the bow of the ship we counted at least 65 animals, but also 2 polar bear, a sabine's gull, and a great skua. A busy 24 hours is now "almost" behind and we are sure more will come. Twenty-four hours of daylight is terrific.
Yesterday a group of very eager and enthusiastic explorers ventured onto the ship National Geographic Endeavour in Longyearbyen, Norway, setting sail for the true High Arctic.
Some of us were confused about the use of the name Svalbard. Until 1920, the group of islands located north of Norway was called Spitsbergen, the original name given by Wilhelm Barents as he spotted the northwest corner. During the Versailles Treaty conference 1919 – 1920, Norway was given the control of the island through the Svalbard Treaty, and until this date the area was referred as to Spitsbergen. Norway did not take full control of the area until 1925, but by then they urgently wanted to “Norwegianize” the area.
Svalbard is mentioned in the Iceland Sagas, as Vikings sailed north and found land. Iceland was settled by Vikings departing the areas of the Scandinavian Peninsula, which now are located in Norway. We now know, that at least this voyage did not take the Vikings to this area. It was either Jan Mayen or the east coast of Greenland they arrived somewhere before 1194.
During the 1920’s, Norway was pushing hard for gaining control of several parts of the High Arctic. Eastern Greenland was claimed and a governor, Helge Ingstad, was appointed. He was later to be renowned as the finder of the only Viking site in America, L'anse aux Meadows at Newfoundland
The settlement Longyearbyen has a long history of coal mining, and was established by a Pennsylvanian entrepreneur as Longyear City. Last year, 2006, they celebrated their 100th anniversary. Only one mine is still in operation but the main coal field is now located in the next fjord, to the south, Bellsund.
Longyearbyen is positioned far into Isfjorden and it was not until after dinner we were in open sea. A number of birds followed us along the fjord to open ocean, kittiwakes, fulmars, little auks and some thick-billed murres (males) were swimming together with the chicks and heading out into the open sea.
As morning progressed it became more obvious that this was really an expedition. Our expedition leader gave us a briefing about how to deal with this hostile environment. Here the polar bear rules the territory. It is cold, wind can be extreme, and suddenly fog can enclose... Plans will be made and many times changed, as you have to deal with the current conditions on the spot. We also have the 24 hours daylight, which mean that our possibility will be almost endless. Someone asked about sunset, and this will not happen until later part of August. Sunrise was in late April!
In the afternoon as we sailed into one of the fjords on the northern side to Spitsbergen, Woodfjorden, where we spotted our first polar bear. Although distant it was the very first. Later we did a landing by using our fleet of Zodiacs to Sørdalsbukta, on the very northern part of Liefdefjord (Love Bay!).
Place names here at Svalbard are a mix from different periods, since Wilhelm Barrents spotted the island in 1596. Dutch and English whalers were here, and Russian Pomors from the White Sea later to be followed by Norwegian trappers. Many different expeditions have crossed the area and also marked their way, by naming sites.
Woodfjord is easy to explain, as driftwood along the beach is very evident. "Liefdefjord" is maybe more vague, but most likely was a name for a Dutch whaling ship. During our hikes, we did discover some of these historical periods. Remains from a former World War II, German weather station, and a grave of a German soldier did surprise us. Birds like king eider, purple sandpiper and red-throated loon were seen. Those who wanted to kneel down on all fours had spectacular flora to investigate.
Before dinner sun started to break through and we got a full view of the area, as the captain took the ship towards Monaccobreen. Along our route a 2nd polar bear was spotted and now everyone was able to really enjoy this very relaxed bear. Some gulls near the beach, were fighting about the remains from the bear's last meal, a seal. As we came up to the glacier front a swarm with different birds was busy feeding at the river outlet. To end this busy day we also made it to the isolated island Moffen, known to be a good site for walrus. From the bow of the ship we counted at least 65 animals, but also 2 polar bear, a sabine's gull, and a great skua. A busy 24 hours is now "almost" behind and we are sure more will come. Twenty-four hours of daylight is terrific.
