Dartmouth

Even before an earlier than usual breakfast - and this on the first day of the voyage - a sizeable group had assembled on deck to watch our approach to the dramatically situated harbor of Dartmouth. The River Dart meets the sea via what looks like a narrow cut through the rugged cliffs of Devonian sandstone, a geological formation that takes its name from this English county. Visible from the open sea and built for commanding views of the same, Britannia Naval College was conspicuous in the early morning sun, soon to be temporary home for the Prince William, close in line to the throne. For Dartmouth is every inch a naval town, where the officers of the Royal Navy are trained to this day and with a proud history stretching back to the days Francis Drake and the Spanish Armada and beyond. Our moorings mid-stream in the River Dart were spectacular, with the colorful dwellings of Dartmouth rising steeply on the west bank of the river and those of Kingswear to the east.

Our morning was spent on a guided walking tour of the town, visiting the Butterwalk and Bayard's Cove where in 1620 the Pilgrim Fathers departed for the religious freedom of the American colonies, finally making the journey from Plymouth whither they had taken shelter after an initial storm. In the afternoon the options included a historical walk between St Saviour's Church in the center of the old town and the earlier foundation of St Petrox at the mouth of the Dart, where a Celtic church was established as early as 594AD. A nature walk explored the flora and fauna of the valley slopes while a more vigorous hike ventured westward along the cliff path. Without a cloud in the sky the photographers were happy to explore details of vernacular architecture or the natural beauties of the Devonshire landscape. In the evening the Captain's Welcome Dinner was the more memorable for the presence of the Dartmouth Town Crier in full voice and costume. English pageantry at its most charming to round off a delightful first day of the voyage.