The Alhambra of Granada, Spain

If yesterday was a day of relaxation, then today we certainly worked for our experience in southern Spain. We set out after breakfast for the city of Granada from the port of Motril. The city is of course the famed home of the Alhambra, the last stronghold of the Moors on the Iberian Peninsula and the most visited monument in all of Spain today. Unfortunately, all those visitors (some 2 million annually) did not decide to take the day off, which meant we had a bit of competition for the magnificent Alhambra. Still, the crowds and the heat could not weaken our resolve nor dampen (except with perspiration!) the splendor of the fabled “red castle,” a place the Moors regarded as an earthly paradise.

The Moorish establishment and occupation of Granada lasted for almost 800 years, but the construction of the Alhambra only began period in the early 13th century. The site was chosen for its prominent position atop the hill above the city, but that also presented a bit of a dilemma for the Moors, who were adamant about the use of nature in its construction; in particular the use of water. Southern Spain is an arid region but blessed with the presence of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, which provides the river Darro with steady supply of melt water from the snow-capped peaks. To solve this problem, the engineers diverted the river some 11 miles over to the site of the palace/fortress in order to provide a continuous source of water for their beautiful fountains and reflecting pools that decorate the grounds and irrigate the gardens. And so the Alhambra was built in the traditional Islamic styles of that time, with a rather stark and utilitarian outer façade masking the sumptuous and extravagant interior, one that by all accounts must have truly been the Eden of its day.

We made our way in and out of the various gardens and palaces throughout the afternoon, bolstered by the excellent lunch we enjoyed at the Alhambra Palace Hotel. The grounds are extensive and have required a full-time staff of gardeners and restorative architects since it was finally recognized as a national monument in 1870 after years of neglect and sporadic occupancy. That period for the Alhambra was a tenuous time for its eventual survival; had it been completely abandoned, the grounds would have undoubtedly been broken apart piece by piece for construction materials. However, thanks in large part to Victorian artists, poets and writers that often visited and took up residence in the palace for inspiration during the mid to late 1800’s, the palace and grounds were saved for future preservation as their works awoke the public’s interest in the allure and historic significance of the Alhambra. Our final stop at the Royal Palace and its reflection pool at the Patio de Comares left us with a powerful last impression of our visit and enough of its history that we were able to reflect and create our own “Tales of the Alhambra” for ride back to the Endeavour… thankfully, our air-conditioned home on the sea.