Mljet National Park and Korcula, Croatia

For more than 2000 years, the hundreds of maquis-clad islands and azure seas of the Dalmatian coast have been the playground of rich and famous Italians. Starting in the 1st century AD with the wealthy Roman residents of Salona (Split), the Venetians from the 14th to early 19th century and now in the 21st century, trade and tourism has created ever-stronger link between these two countries the ring the Adriatic Sea. After the hustle and bustle of Dubrovnik yesterday, we changed gears completely and once anchored off the small town of Pomena on the island of Mljet, we spent the morning walking, paddling, and bicycling around lake Veliko Jezero and swimming in the smaller, semi-fresh water of Malo Jezero, both of which are located in Mljet National Park.

Tossing off our mooring lines at 2:30, we cruised north to spend the afternoon and evening on the pine covered island of Korcula, one of the largest islands in the Dalmatian archipelago, and the supposed birthplace of Marco Polo. The forests of this island furnished wood for the shipbuilding activities of every major power that conquered or commanded this territory including the Romans, Genoese, and Venetians. Bathed in the late afternoon sunlight, it was immediately evident that of all these it was Venice that left the biggest imprint on the architecture and art of the medieval town of Korcula with its honey-colored stone buildings and walls. The legendary skill of her native stonecutters was evident at every twist and turn of the narrow streets from the crenellations with snarling beats atop the cathedral to the many coats-of-arms that adorned the doorways of houses of the now-departed noble merchant families. From the Tintoretto altarpieces, to the exquisite collection of drawings by Italian Renaissance and Baroque artists such as Carpaccio, Bassano and Tiepolo that are housed in the Bishop’s treasury, this jewel-like Croatian town, with its tiny squares and step stairs down through the walls to the harbor, is truly the hidden treasure of this region. In the shadow of the Lion’s Gate, the clashing swords and swirling motion of black and red clad Moreska sword dancers performing a traditional folk drama commemorating the age-old struggle between the Christians and Ottoman Turks in this area capped off a day of exploring this fascinating coastline.