Lubeck, Germany
At dawn the Endeavour crossed from the Baltic Proper into the mouth of the Trave River. We’d been sailing west, into ever increasing salty water, and so then entering this freshwater and following it upriver. Coming in by ship, from the Baltic Sea, on the Trave River, seems an exceptionally appropriate way to approach the Medieval Hanseatic center of Lubeck, once the strongest and wealthiest of the Hansa League’s trading centers. From the bridge, our German captain, Carl, explained to some early rising guests, how this very river was once the frontier between the Cold War East and West Germanys. This helped us to understand the graphic difference between the cultural landscapes of each river bank. To the west, agriculture, factories, summer homes, to the east, second growth forest, marshes, bogs. Carl explained that during the divided days, the East German’s created a no-go frontier zone, one that was strictly monitored for any security breaches.
The result of a 2007 Europe waging peace is a series of shoreline protected areas, nature reserves, frontier parks. Each backwater area held beautiful swans and geese. And then suddenly we heard a high shrill and watched a white-tailed eagle, once highly endangered, being chased by a couple of crows. Europe’s equivalent of the bald eagle had similiarly been devastated by DDT and associated egg shell thinning. But here was evidence of its remarkable comeback thanks to implementation of EU environmental regulations; we spotted three individuals while approaching Lubeck.
First appearing were Lubeck’s magnificent spires of Jacobi and Katherinen Churches. And soon the island medieval city amidst a dozen canals was on our starboard. Following a smooth docking we boarded smaller water taxis for a guided tour of the surrounding canals followed by walking tours of the intensely gabled homes and cobbled streets. We had an afternoon to explore the city in small groups. Some ate a delicious meal at the famous Hansa restaurant Schiffer-gesellschaft, while others chose to enjoy a strong coffee absorbing the sun in the cafes astride the Rathaus Markt. Here the flying buttresses and arches and gables made for a storybook afternoon. Others in our group opted for the Buddenbrook Haus of Heinrich and Thomas Mann. This is a brilliant museum of the Nobel winner’s remarkable literary family and community. By 1730 hours we ran back to catch the Zodiac to our ship, amidst distant lightning and thunder. Upon boarding the ship the first hail pebbles fell, this, a spectacular finish to our two weeks exploring the capitals and islands of the Baltic Sea.
At dawn the Endeavour crossed from the Baltic Proper into the mouth of the Trave River. We’d been sailing west, into ever increasing salty water, and so then entering this freshwater and following it upriver. Coming in by ship, from the Baltic Sea, on the Trave River, seems an exceptionally appropriate way to approach the Medieval Hanseatic center of Lubeck, once the strongest and wealthiest of the Hansa League’s trading centers. From the bridge, our German captain, Carl, explained to some early rising guests, how this very river was once the frontier between the Cold War East and West Germanys. This helped us to understand the graphic difference between the cultural landscapes of each river bank. To the west, agriculture, factories, summer homes, to the east, second growth forest, marshes, bogs. Carl explained that during the divided days, the East German’s created a no-go frontier zone, one that was strictly monitored for any security breaches.
The result of a 2007 Europe waging peace is a series of shoreline protected areas, nature reserves, frontier parks. Each backwater area held beautiful swans and geese. And then suddenly we heard a high shrill and watched a white-tailed eagle, once highly endangered, being chased by a couple of crows. Europe’s equivalent of the bald eagle had similiarly been devastated by DDT and associated egg shell thinning. But here was evidence of its remarkable comeback thanks to implementation of EU environmental regulations; we spotted three individuals while approaching Lubeck.
First appearing were Lubeck’s magnificent spires of Jacobi and Katherinen Churches. And soon the island medieval city amidst a dozen canals was on our starboard. Following a smooth docking we boarded smaller water taxis for a guided tour of the surrounding canals followed by walking tours of the intensely gabled homes and cobbled streets. We had an afternoon to explore the city in small groups. Some ate a delicious meal at the famous Hansa restaurant Schiffer-gesellschaft, while others chose to enjoy a strong coffee absorbing the sun in the cafes astride the Rathaus Markt. Here the flying buttresses and arches and gables made for a storybook afternoon. Others in our group opted for the Buddenbrook Haus of Heinrich and Thomas Mann. This is a brilliant museum of the Nobel winner’s remarkable literary family and community. By 1730 hours we ran back to catch the Zodiac to our ship, amidst distant lightning and thunder. Upon boarding the ship the first hail pebbles fell, this, a spectacular finish to our two weeks exploring the capitals and islands of the Baltic Sea.
