Langanes and Grimsey, Iceland
During the evening National Geographic Endeavour rounded Iceland’s Northeast corner and sailed to the Langanes peninsula. It is a remote place even for native Icelanders. We took zodiacs ashore and wet landed, trading our gumboots for hiking boots. The team then proceeded cross country through hummocky terrain; it was like walking on basketballs. We crossed a small stream before finding an old dirt road leading 4 km across the low lying peninsula. Here the basalt rock is roughly 1 million years old and still on the European plate.
Those who first arrived found a small herd of seemingly wild Icelandic ponies. They displayed coats of many colors and were long-maned. Our junior naturalist Kerry found a guillemot egg, and some of us enjoyed getting on our bellies to explore the flowered ground cover. Sunshine, blue skies and a crisp breeze made for a lovely morning. The far side beach was driftwood littered, mostly hand cut. Birds were plentiful, eiders and arctic terns especially.
In the afternoon we sailed for the minor isle of Grimsey; enroute, crossing the mid-Atlantic ridge. Our geologic map read that the rock here was also 1 million years old, but now we were on the North American plate. Our evening recap included a brief intro to the Arctic Circle because it cuts the island in half, apparently running right through the local ministers bed! Today the sun would sink below the horizon for roughly 45 minutes and it would not get dark in the civic twilight.
We all made it ashore and walked the short distance to the 66 degree 33 minute line. The National Geographic Endeavour galley had prepared a celebratory champagne bar. Some of us walked closer to this year’s Circle, which shifts because of the earth’s wobble about its axis of rotation.
Along this walk, many of us found a perfect nest of solitude and tranquility to contemplate the Arctic Ocean and the slowly, slowly descending sun. It was illuminating rafts of 1000’s of puffins. The cliffsides were covered with puffins and their nests. The dirt walkway meandered along the cliff through tern nest fields. We followed the GPS, walking and walking, not sure just where the Arctic circle would cross. And then ten of us, after 30 minutes walking counted down the final latitudinal seconds to 66 degrees, 33.7 minutes. Sharing salutations, champagne, and group photos, we then meandered back to the docks, reflecting on the incredible calm and bird-sea-cliffscape. A golden sun resplendent, up on the arctic –temperate borderlands. Tucked in and under each little ledge, a puffin. It was midnight.
Endeavour departed Grimsey. Some of our team had been cod fishing and shared their success showing us their catch of many fish. And soon the sun did set. We waited a few more minutes. And watched her rise.
During the evening National Geographic Endeavour rounded Iceland’s Northeast corner and sailed to the Langanes peninsula. It is a remote place even for native Icelanders. We took zodiacs ashore and wet landed, trading our gumboots for hiking boots. The team then proceeded cross country through hummocky terrain; it was like walking on basketballs. We crossed a small stream before finding an old dirt road leading 4 km across the low lying peninsula. Here the basalt rock is roughly 1 million years old and still on the European plate.
Those who first arrived found a small herd of seemingly wild Icelandic ponies. They displayed coats of many colors and were long-maned. Our junior naturalist Kerry found a guillemot egg, and some of us enjoyed getting on our bellies to explore the flowered ground cover. Sunshine, blue skies and a crisp breeze made for a lovely morning. The far side beach was driftwood littered, mostly hand cut. Birds were plentiful, eiders and arctic terns especially.
In the afternoon we sailed for the minor isle of Grimsey; enroute, crossing the mid-Atlantic ridge. Our geologic map read that the rock here was also 1 million years old, but now we were on the North American plate. Our evening recap included a brief intro to the Arctic Circle because it cuts the island in half, apparently running right through the local ministers bed! Today the sun would sink below the horizon for roughly 45 minutes and it would not get dark in the civic twilight.
We all made it ashore and walked the short distance to the 66 degree 33 minute line. The National Geographic Endeavour galley had prepared a celebratory champagne bar. Some of us walked closer to this year’s Circle, which shifts because of the earth’s wobble about its axis of rotation.
Along this walk, many of us found a perfect nest of solitude and tranquility to contemplate the Arctic Ocean and the slowly, slowly descending sun. It was illuminating rafts of 1000’s of puffins. The cliffsides were covered with puffins and their nests. The dirt walkway meandered along the cliff through tern nest fields. We followed the GPS, walking and walking, not sure just where the Arctic circle would cross. And then ten of us, after 30 minutes walking counted down the final latitudinal seconds to 66 degrees, 33.7 minutes. Sharing salutations, champagne, and group photos, we then meandered back to the docks, reflecting on the incredible calm and bird-sea-cliffscape. A golden sun resplendent, up on the arctic –temperate borderlands. Tucked in and under each little ledge, a puffin. It was midnight.
Endeavour departed Grimsey. Some of our team had been cod fishing and shared their success showing us their catch of many fish. And soon the sun did set. We waited a few more minutes. And watched her rise.
