Santa Cruz Island
After 3 ½ days of exploring various islands in the Galápagos Archipelago where the primary inhabitants are sea lions, iguanas, and birds we spent today on Santa Cruz, the second largest island and experienced the human aspect of these magical islands.
We arrived by Zodiac at Puerto Ayora, population 15,000. Our destination was the Charles Darwin Research Center. Fernando Sanchez, our naturalist provided us with a “mini” course in the research center’s efforts to breed and to repopulate the tortoise population to the various islands. We observed tortoises in several pens, sorted by age and island of origin. These babies, aged two to five years bore a color-coded number on their backs to further identify them.
Fernando pointed out the difference between the saddle back and dome shelled tortoises as we made our way to the area where the Darwin Center’s most famous resident holds court. Lonesome George, estimated to be more than 60 years old, is the only surviving tortoise from Pinta Island. Two females, whose DNA most closely matches George’s were sitting with him in the shade, trying to avoid the Ecuadorian heat. Although the center has been trying to breed George for many years, the effort has not proven successful. If no offspring are produced with the two females, George’s line will become extinct.
The reigning king in the offspring department at the Center is Diego, another saddleback tortoise whose 1,500 progeny have been successfully repatriated to Espanola Island. We found Diego resting behind a giant, prickly pear cactus which can grow to a height of 39 feet. He seemed unconcerned that he was stealing George’s thunder.
After our visit to the Darwin Station we walked back into town to shop. Hats, tee shirts, jewelry, and products from local artists were available as remembrances. A five mile bus ride to the highlands brought welcome relief from the heat and also our mid-day meal. Altair Restaurant and hotel provided us with an Ecuadorian lunch and a short respite before the afternoon’s activities.
We were given several options for the rest of the day: a visit to Los Gemelos, a pair of pit craters in a forest of endemic Scalesia trees where many birds make their homes, a walk through the property of a Galápagos native located in the middle of the tortoise migratory route, or both activities for the intrepid explorer. The giant tortoises we observed in this area were males, as the females had headed to lower, drier ground to lay their eggs. These awesome reptiles mesmerized us as they sat in the field slowly eating, slowly moving, barely blinking an eye.
Back on board, Ros Cameron from the Charles Darwin Research Center spoke about the current state of conservation in the Galápagos and the efforts untaken by the Center to ensure the future of the islands in their original state. After dinner we were treated to a performance by visiting local musicians and dancers.
Even on Santa Cruz, the island with the largest human population, the enchantment of the giant tortoises dominates and will remain an unforgettable part of this otherworldly journey.
