Santiago Island

One of the most amazing things about this archipelago is that every day the islands and the visitor sites are so different from each other. This morning we landed on chocolate-colored sand to visit Espumilla Beach and in the afternoon we landed on a black beach—so close to each other, yet so different.

At Espumilla we had an early walk along the beach and then we went inland, squatting under some mangrove trees that guard the entrance to the trail. First we walked on sand, then close to a dry brackish lagoon that used to be the home of flamingos. Then we were walking inland on boulders, climbing right next to an old river bed, home of the largest Palo Santo trees, Galápagos hawks, Galápagos mockingbirds, a female vermillion flycatcher and many of the Darwin’s finches. Walking early in the morning gave us a different sense of the island; the smell of plants waking up to a new day transported us to a magical world that is only found in these islands.

While we were having breakfast the National Geographic Endeavour sailed to Buccaneers Cove for our water activities, including the glass-bottom boat for those who prefer to stay dry while enjoying the beauty of the underwater world. The kayak ride was spectacular along the amazing cliffs and rock formations of this place; it was definitely breathtaking to be in the water so close to these astounding rocks. And the snorkeling was great, as usual.

In the afternoon we landed on a black beach to start our journey into the peaceful tuff trail that took us inland to see the Galápagos mockingbird, Galápagos doves, finches and lava lizards. Along the coast we walked close to some grottos, where we found the Galápagos fur seals that slept pleasantly on the lava, shore birds, marine iguanas and the always-conspicuous Sally Lightfoot crabs on the black lava.

With a lovely sunset behind Isabela Island we boarded the Zodiacs to ride back to our floating home and wait for more surprises the next day.