Tristan da Cunha and Nightingale Island

So what do a chicken, an albatross, and a penguin have in common with us humans on board the National Geographic Endeavour? While you are pondering that question I will tell you a little about our day here at Tristan da Cunha and Nightingale Island.

First and foremost let it be said that there is absolutely no easy way to get here. There is no commercial airport, indeed no runway for a plane of any size at all. The harbor is tiny, with no room for a large boat to enter. More than one of our Zodiac inflatable boats fills the tiny breakwater basin. The next nearest island is St. Helena at 1,326 miles to the north. The nearest continent is Africa with Cape Town being 1,519 miles to the east. The only way to get to Tristan da Cunha is via ship, as we all did after a five day passage from South Georgia Island.

No wonder locals bill their home as the most remote island in the world! Our morning was spent wandering the streets of this tiny town (population about 300 souls) or heading out to the potato patch to see the local crop. Wildlife included cows, dogs, and chickens, all against a beautiful backdrop of volcanic rock from the most recent 1961 eruption. This eruption led to the evacuation of all the inhabitants of the island to England, though most returned two years later when it was deemed safe for human habitation once again. After a wonderful gathering for drinks and appetizers at the Island Administrator’s Residence we weighed anchor and headed across the 25 mile channel to Nightingale Island.

The contrast was immediate and overwhelming. Yellow-nosed albatross filled the air and the moseleyi sub-species of rockhopper penguin lined the beach. Not a cow, dog or chicken in sight. Sub-Antarctic fur seals frolicked in the surf and the ever-curious Tristan thrush was there to welcome us to shore. With the surf running high we safely managed to land everyone who wished to be put ashore onto the rocks, though some were a little wetter than they might have expected. A short hike through the tussock grass yielded some of the best birding opportunities of our trip so far.

And in the end, what is the answer to my little query? The common thread of course comes in how difficult it is to get here! Some can fly (the albatrosses), some must swim (the penguins), but the chickens and all staff and guests aboard the National Geographic Endeavour had to come to these islands the same way, on a long and difficult voyage via ship.