Orkney Islands, Scotland

Today we arrived in the Orkneys, an archipelago of 65 or so islands and islets. We disembarked at Stromness, the second largest town on the largest island, which is referred to as Mainland. Here Mainland is in the Orkneys and Scotland is to the south. Orcadians allegiance is more toward Scandinavia than Scotland…although politically and legally, it is a part of Scotland.

We began our exploration onshore by going back in time some 5,000 or more years with a visit to Skara Brae, a Neolithic site. A tremendous storm in 1850 stripped away sand and soil to reveal the outline of stone buildings built earlier than the pyramids of Giza. We marveled at the enigmatic Ring of Brodgar, with its massive upright slabs of Old Red Sandstone flags. We paused for views of the Standing Stones of Stenness and the winter solstice aligned burial tomb called Maeshowe. Collectively these ancient sites make up the World Heritage site known as “The Heart of Neolithic Orkney.”

Next was a visit to Scapa Flow, the location of important naval events and tragedies during both great wars. Then off to Mainland’s biggest city Kirkwall, where we toured St. Magnus Cathedral, one of Scotland’s finest medieval churches.

In the afternoon, the National Geographic Endeavour repositioned to Shapinsay. By Zodiac, we landed on this tiny island and broke into several groups. Some of us hiked to a bird blind and spied on the waterfowl and shorebirds in a small lake. Others visited a walled garden. We all eventually met at the Scottish Baronial-style Balfour Castle, built in 1848. Once there, we enjoyed tea and cakes plus a tour of the castle.

Back onboard, we were treated music by the local Orcadian band Hullion. And finally, those of us who were still awake after a long, adventurous day, watched our video chronicler Sarah’s sneak preview of her trip video. A fine day indeed.