Today, we officially entered the Tropics and visited the Gambier Archipelago, a small group of islands located off the southeast terminus of the Tuamotus. The entire archipelago, which consists of 16 volcanic and coralline islands, is surrounded by an enormous barrier coral reef, which is broken by only three passages that allow access to the interior lagoon. The main island, Mangareva, is an impressive volcanic island which rises to 441 meters (1,455 feet) above sea level. It has been estimated that the Gambier Islands may have had a population of 9,000 people in prehistoric times and they had a complex trading system that included some of the other islands we have already visited, e.g. Pitcairn and Henderson. However, archeological evidence has shown that this trade network broke down in the 15th century and the Gambier Islanders essentially became isolated.
The modern history of the island group begins in 1834, when Father Honore Laval and two compatriots from the Pictus Society of the Order of the Sacred Heart monastery in Valparaiso arrived at Mangareva to proselytize the locals. Amazingly, their coming had been predicted by the previous king, so they were welcomed with great ceremony and had a relatively easy time converting the indigenes to Christianity and gaining control. What followed, according to historian Clifford Gessler, was “the death of a people.” Father Laval essentially became their new leader, and he quickly saw to the destruction of all the stone images of the ancient gods and the temple platforms. He then set about constructing a modern European-styled city, the likes of which the Polynesians had never seen. The locals were put to work building a great cathedral out of blocks of coral and other local materials. It took nine years to build and could accommodate 1,200 people. They also built a palace for the king, a monastery, a convent, a prison, a textile factory, coastal watchtowers, and a chapel on the site of every pagan altar. The death rate among the local populace soared and the birthrate plummeted during this period. By the time Father Laval was recalled to Tahiti for his excesses, the population had dropped to just 500 people. He was unrepentant regarding the effect his 37 years of leadership had upon the Gambier Islanders and responded that “…they have but gone more quickly to heaven."
Right after breakfast, we landed on Mangareva Island at Rikitea, the only town in the archipelago, and made an easy walk over to visit Father Laval’s great legacy…the Cathedral of St Michael. It is now in the process of being restored to its former glory. Everyone was especially impressed by the ornate altar decorations of pearl shells. The windy situation made for delightful conditions on shore and most of us continued walking up the main road to visit King Te Maputeoa’s Tomb, as well as the ruins of the Convent and its chapel. Others visited the town spread out along the shoreline. The views Mt. Duff behind the town at the south end of the island and the vistas out over the huge lagoon were magnificent. Most of the trees and vegetation have been introduced to the island, but the island is green and lush and truly a tropical paradise.
The modern history of the island group begins in 1834, when Father Honore Laval and two compatriots from the Pictus Society of the Order of the Sacred Heart monastery in Valparaiso arrived at Mangareva to proselytize the locals. Amazingly, their coming had been predicted by the previous king, so they were welcomed with great ceremony and had a relatively easy time converting the indigenes to Christianity and gaining control. What followed, according to historian Clifford Gessler, was “the death of a people.” Father Laval essentially became their new leader, and he quickly saw to the destruction of all the stone images of the ancient gods and the temple platforms. He then set about constructing a modern European-styled city, the likes of which the Polynesians had never seen. The locals were put to work building a great cathedral out of blocks of coral and other local materials. It took nine years to build and could accommodate 1,200 people. They also built a palace for the king, a monastery, a convent, a prison, a textile factory, coastal watchtowers, and a chapel on the site of every pagan altar. The death rate among the local populace soared and the birthrate plummeted during this period. By the time Father Laval was recalled to Tahiti for his excesses, the population had dropped to just 500 people. He was unrepentant regarding the effect his 37 years of leadership had upon the Gambier Islanders and responded that “…they have but gone more quickly to heaven."
Right after breakfast, we landed on Mangareva Island at Rikitea, the only town in the archipelago, and made an easy walk over to visit Father Laval’s great legacy…the Cathedral of St Michael. It is now in the process of being restored to its former glory. Everyone was especially impressed by the ornate altar decorations of pearl shells. The windy situation made for delightful conditions on shore and most of us continued walking up the main road to visit King Te Maputeoa’s Tomb, as well as the ruins of the Convent and its chapel. Others visited the town spread out along the shoreline. The views Mt. Duff behind the town at the south end of the island and the vistas out over the huge lagoon were magnificent. Most of the trees and vegetation have been introduced to the island, but the island is green and lush and truly a tropical paradise.
