'Atiu or Enuamanu Island, Southern Cook Islands
Twenty five years ago, while reading some of the old classics, it became clear to me that expedition travel was not conceived for the common traveller, or the seeker of exotics. We want to revive the tradition of the philosophical trip and to recover the notion that, first of all, we cross the world to find ourselves. This voyage is one of those unique opportunities, and coming to the island of 'Atiu, a stop full of expectations. This little island was first colonised by a small group of Polynesian voyagers towards the end of the first millennium A.D. The material remains of there presence are now covered, but close to 600 descendants of the first settlers still live here and maintain many of the old traditions, but with a curious blend of Christian beliefs.
Early this Sunday we sighted the island, and as we knew that the Atiuans did not want us to land before religious services in the three main churches, i.e. Catholic, Apostolic and Seventh Day Adventists, it was planned to spend the morning snorkeling, diving and observing the marine life on board the glass bottom boat. With a calm sea and bright blue sky, the waters were crystal clear. The expedition staff assisted us in the observation and identification of the large variety of fish and coral types encountered.
During lunch, we repositioned to the landing site at Taunganui. As we approached the pier, we were received with welcome signs and the loud sound of conch trumpets, flower leis made with perfumed gardenias, traditional Polynesian chants and the welcoming performance of an ‘Atiuan dressed in the traditional warriors custom. We walked up a gentle slope to where 4x4 trucks waited for us. We stopped several times to visit historic landmarks like the small beach were James Cook is said to have landed in 1777. After a few miles, we arrived at the volcanic centre of the island, and started our visit to the three churches. The locals greeted us with hymns and chants and a generous and colourful display of their local food, cakes, fruits and juices. Interaction between visitors and locals was intensive and culturally rich; the groups continued the visit directed in particular to see a few of the seven or eight “Tumunu” breweries or bush beer party huts.
"Originally tumunu was 'Atiu's version of the Pacific-wide habit of kava drinking" and their roots can be traced back to the old-time kava ceremonies of traditional Polynesian society. These ceremonies were linked with religion and sociopolitical meetings that took place in special houses where men of high social rank and prestige met. After the Europeans arrived, kava ceremonies were prohibited, and later when beer brewing and drinking became illegal, the tumunu school or club "grew out of the prohibitions placed on alcohol by the missionaries. To escape the prohibition, the men of 'Atiu would disappear into the bush and brew beer made mainly from oranges."
Today they use hops, malt, yeast and sugar. These tumunu are still today considered a sort of men's club. It was significant to be able to see how these old ceremonies still survive today in a colorful way. We were taken to the Tamariki Te Pou Nui (Big Night Boysat in) Tumunu" which was run in a tiny bush hut with coconut thatched roof (kiekau)". We sat in a circle with the "barman" in the centre. Ranged in a semi-circle were the members of the tumunu and the brew master. "The barman, pulled back the lid of his (wooden) drum, dipped in a cup made from the pointed end of a coconut shell, and offered it to each person in turn. Everyone was expected to drink the first cup straight down and hand it back to the barman." The brew was "warm and flat and tasted faintly like a wine... a port, although it was clearly a beer." Several rounds of drink were offered during which the tumunu members played ukelele, guitar and little drums and sang songs.
We headed back to the ship along with half a dozen Cook Islanders, some from ‘Atiu, others from Aitutaki and most of them landowners at Manuae where we will arrive tomorrow. They will help us make the landing and share their knowledge of the island. Tonight as I write they are performing at the main lounge, some of them singing traditional Cook Islands songs, other showing the many different ways of attaching the famous pareu. This is already a great beginning for tomorrow’s special visit to the extremely isolated coral island that awaits us.
Excerpts from a description by John Walters, 1998
Twenty five years ago, while reading some of the old classics, it became clear to me that expedition travel was not conceived for the common traveller, or the seeker of exotics. We want to revive the tradition of the philosophical trip and to recover the notion that, first of all, we cross the world to find ourselves. This voyage is one of those unique opportunities, and coming to the island of 'Atiu, a stop full of expectations. This little island was first colonised by a small group of Polynesian voyagers towards the end of the first millennium A.D. The material remains of there presence are now covered, but close to 600 descendants of the first settlers still live here and maintain many of the old traditions, but with a curious blend of Christian beliefs.
Early this Sunday we sighted the island, and as we knew that the Atiuans did not want us to land before religious services in the three main churches, i.e. Catholic, Apostolic and Seventh Day Adventists, it was planned to spend the morning snorkeling, diving and observing the marine life on board the glass bottom boat. With a calm sea and bright blue sky, the waters were crystal clear. The expedition staff assisted us in the observation and identification of the large variety of fish and coral types encountered.
During lunch, we repositioned to the landing site at Taunganui. As we approached the pier, we were received with welcome signs and the loud sound of conch trumpets, flower leis made with perfumed gardenias, traditional Polynesian chants and the welcoming performance of an ‘Atiuan dressed in the traditional warriors custom. We walked up a gentle slope to where 4x4 trucks waited for us. We stopped several times to visit historic landmarks like the small beach were James Cook is said to have landed in 1777. After a few miles, we arrived at the volcanic centre of the island, and started our visit to the three churches. The locals greeted us with hymns and chants and a generous and colourful display of their local food, cakes, fruits and juices. Interaction between visitors and locals was intensive and culturally rich; the groups continued the visit directed in particular to see a few of the seven or eight “Tumunu” breweries or bush beer party huts.
"Originally tumunu was 'Atiu's version of the Pacific-wide habit of kava drinking" and their roots can be traced back to the old-time kava ceremonies of traditional Polynesian society. These ceremonies were linked with religion and sociopolitical meetings that took place in special houses where men of high social rank and prestige met. After the Europeans arrived, kava ceremonies were prohibited, and later when beer brewing and drinking became illegal, the tumunu school or club "grew out of the prohibitions placed on alcohol by the missionaries. To escape the prohibition, the men of 'Atiu would disappear into the bush and brew beer made mainly from oranges."
Today they use hops, malt, yeast and sugar. These tumunu are still today considered a sort of men's club. It was significant to be able to see how these old ceremonies still survive today in a colorful way. We were taken to the Tamariki Te Pou Nui (Big Night Boysat in) Tumunu" which was run in a tiny bush hut with coconut thatched roof (kiekau)". We sat in a circle with the "barman" in the centre. Ranged in a semi-circle were the members of the tumunu and the brew master. "The barman, pulled back the lid of his (wooden) drum, dipped in a cup made from the pointed end of a coconut shell, and offered it to each person in turn. Everyone was expected to drink the first cup straight down and hand it back to the barman." The brew was "warm and flat and tasted faintly like a wine... a port, although it was clearly a beer." Several rounds of drink were offered during which the tumunu members played ukelele, guitar and little drums and sang songs.
We headed back to the ship along with half a dozen Cook Islanders, some from ‘Atiu, others from Aitutaki and most of them landowners at Manuae where we will arrive tomorrow. They will help us make the landing and share their knowledge of the island. Tonight as I write they are performing at the main lounge, some of them singing traditional Cook Islands songs, other showing the many different ways of attaching the famous pareu. This is already a great beginning for tomorrow’s special visit to the extremely isolated coral island that awaits us.
Excerpts from a description by John Walters, 1998
