Santa Ana Island, Solomon Islands
The sea rocks one to sleep, and when the wake up call is made, we awake with gently continued slow rocks. All during the night we were guided in a southeasterly direction past the large Solomon Island of Makira. As the first glow of morning light brightened the eastern horizon we could see swells breaking on the reef around our destination, Santa Ana Island. However, with skill and knowledge the bridge officers took us through an opening in the fringing reef and to the calm of the central lagoon. The skies were partially overcast resulting in a cooler morning and some shade from the tall cumulus clouds. For those of us that may have been not quite awake when they loaded into the Zodiacs after a slightly early breakfast, as soon as the Zodiac bow touched the beach we were jolted into alertness. Out of the village came a group of screaming “warriors” blackened by ashes and brandishing spears and clubs. This was the traditional welcoming committee of the islanders for important visitors. It was all in good fun, and onshore we found everyone to be most friendly and cheerful.
While the Zodiacs shuttled groups ashore, there was an opportunity to look around at the local handicrafts that were displayed. A variety of shells, necklaces, and carvings lay on woven mats. The most unique were “pop-up” fishing floats carved out of light wood with intricate inlay of mother of pearl. A small rock at the bottom counterbalanced the float until a fish was hooked. There would be time for more shopping later, however, once we were all “Welcomed,” some of the village leaders directed us through the stilted woven houses to an open field that seconded as a soccer pitch. An open covered “stand” with benches gave us a front row seat for the dancing. Panpipes of various sizes gave background music which helped to liven the atmosphere. The villagers had also gone to great lengths to decorate the beach and the viewing stand with lovely flowers and greenery,
The organizer of our visit, Jacob, gave an very articulate and clear explanation of the dances we would see. Villages on the island took turns performing for visitors, and today it was the turn of a village over an hour’s walk away. For the next hour we were treated to a variety of very traditional dances. 1) Mao-Nifita Weto - performed by women during feasts held in honor of high chiefs. 2) Afuri dance - conch shell horns blowing their deep clear tone; performed by women in the evening during feasts for invited guests from other islands. 3) Mwabe-mwabe - women dancing during wedding ceremony. 4) Ai-matawa Aifono-fono - dance begins with group of men dancing but interrupted with the appearance of the Ai-matawa which are covered in yellow/red mud and representing Polynesians; then another group painted in black charcoal representing Melanesians; the drama of chasing around the dancers ends when the Melanesians drive off the Polynesians and the dancers continue to their finish. Not only were we delighted and impressed with the dancing but dozens of villagers had also gathered around to watch - both the dancers and undoubtedly also our reactions and behavior.
For the rest of the morning, about half of the group made a trek across the island to the village where the dancers had come from. Of interest there was one of the few remaining Spirit Houses. Women were not allowed to cross the low wall of wood beams but could peer inside at the contents. Men could cross into the world of past chiefs and warriors. Inside on decaying racks were the skulls and bones of past chiefs and warriors of the village. Funeral miniature canoes contained remains of some important men. Carved figures hollowed out in the middle contained others. Nothing to preserve the ravages of insects and rot some of the intricately carved containers were slowly going back to dust. Outside another gathering watched our visit. Dozens of children were entertained by our presence. On the windward side of the island the surf curled and crashed on the outer fringing reef. The surf, fringing reef, palm-lined beach thatched village homes, and dense tropical jungle behind was the quintessential village of the South Pacific.
The sea rocks one to sleep, and when the wake up call is made, we awake with gently continued slow rocks. All during the night we were guided in a southeasterly direction past the large Solomon Island of Makira. As the first glow of morning light brightened the eastern horizon we could see swells breaking on the reef around our destination, Santa Ana Island. However, with skill and knowledge the bridge officers took us through an opening in the fringing reef and to the calm of the central lagoon. The skies were partially overcast resulting in a cooler morning and some shade from the tall cumulus clouds. For those of us that may have been not quite awake when they loaded into the Zodiacs after a slightly early breakfast, as soon as the Zodiac bow touched the beach we were jolted into alertness. Out of the village came a group of screaming “warriors” blackened by ashes and brandishing spears and clubs. This was the traditional welcoming committee of the islanders for important visitors. It was all in good fun, and onshore we found everyone to be most friendly and cheerful.
While the Zodiacs shuttled groups ashore, there was an opportunity to look around at the local handicrafts that were displayed. A variety of shells, necklaces, and carvings lay on woven mats. The most unique were “pop-up” fishing floats carved out of light wood with intricate inlay of mother of pearl. A small rock at the bottom counterbalanced the float until a fish was hooked. There would be time for more shopping later, however, once we were all “Welcomed,” some of the village leaders directed us through the stilted woven houses to an open field that seconded as a soccer pitch. An open covered “stand” with benches gave us a front row seat for the dancing. Panpipes of various sizes gave background music which helped to liven the atmosphere. The villagers had also gone to great lengths to decorate the beach and the viewing stand with lovely flowers and greenery,
The organizer of our visit, Jacob, gave an very articulate and clear explanation of the dances we would see. Villages on the island took turns performing for visitors, and today it was the turn of a village over an hour’s walk away. For the next hour we were treated to a variety of very traditional dances. 1) Mao-Nifita Weto - performed by women during feasts held in honor of high chiefs. 2) Afuri dance - conch shell horns blowing their deep clear tone; performed by women in the evening during feasts for invited guests from other islands. 3) Mwabe-mwabe - women dancing during wedding ceremony. 4) Ai-matawa Aifono-fono - dance begins with group of men dancing but interrupted with the appearance of the Ai-matawa which are covered in yellow/red mud and representing Polynesians; then another group painted in black charcoal representing Melanesians; the drama of chasing around the dancers ends when the Melanesians drive off the Polynesians and the dancers continue to their finish. Not only were we delighted and impressed with the dancing but dozens of villagers had also gathered around to watch - both the dancers and undoubtedly also our reactions and behavior.
For the rest of the morning, about half of the group made a trek across the island to the village where the dancers had come from. Of interest there was one of the few remaining Spirit Houses. Women were not allowed to cross the low wall of wood beams but could peer inside at the contents. Men could cross into the world of past chiefs and warriors. Inside on decaying racks were the skulls and bones of past chiefs and warriors of the village. Funeral miniature canoes contained remains of some important men. Carved figures hollowed out in the middle contained others. Nothing to preserve the ravages of insects and rot some of the intricately carved containers were slowly going back to dust. Outside another gathering watched our visit. Dozens of children were entertained by our presence. On the windward side of the island the surf curled and crashed on the outer fringing reef. The surf, fringing reef, palm-lined beach thatched village homes, and dense tropical jungle behind was the quintessential village of the South Pacific.
