Svalbard, Norway

Morning found us off the northeast coast of Prins Karls Forland, an island west of Spitsbergen. A quick recon of Richardlaguna by our Expedition Leader Matt Drennan revealed a couple of walrus hauled out on a rocky beach.

A gray cloud cover turned the choppy sea into a bed of molten lead, but the brisk wind erased any illusions that the Zodiac ride was going to be warm and dry. As we approached shore, a small flock of eiders sailed by.

We slowly cruised past two gigantic blimps of blubber, which of course were the walrus. They could hardly bother lifting their heads to take a look at us, although we busied ourselves clicking shutters. In the foreground, arctic terns squeaked and picked small fish or invertebrates off the ocean surface.

A ringed seal suddenly popped up like a submarine periscope, but just as quickly sank below the surface.

In the afternoon, we explored Krossfjorden, a large fjord that penetrates the west coast of Spitsbergen. The weather greatly improved as the day progressed, allowing us to make a landing and take a walk to the edge of a glacier. Along the way, we were treated to sightings of reindeer, an arctic fox, and many different kids of birds, including guillemots, a pomarine skua, barnacle geese, black-legged kittiwakes, and glaucous gulls. Back at the landing, one brave (or was it foolish) young person deliberately took a fast plunge into the icy waters just for the heck of it.

Once back on board, hot dogs with sauerkraut and beer was waiting for us. But our adventures weren’t over yet.

After dinner, we were back in the Zodiacs and cruising near the towering white and blue face of the massive Lilliehöökbreen glacier. With booms like distant thunder, huge walls of ice slid into the fjord. A bearded seal lounged on a small berg and seemed unperturbed. We mere mortals, on the other hand, were duly impressed with nature’s raw power.