Santo Antão, Cape Verde Islands
Expectations ran high as we approached the island of São Vicente to pick up officials who would give us clearance to enter the Cape Verde Islands. São Vicente is home to the second largest city of the archipelago, Mindelo, a bustling port of some 67,000 inhabitants.
The Cape Verde Islands played a pivotal role in the trade between Europe, Africa, and the Americas. Settled by the Portuguese in the 15th century, they served as a human warehouse for the African slave labour much needed in the Portuguese sugar cane plantations of Brazil. Today, after independence from the Portuguese in 1975, the Republic of Cape Verde is considered by some to be the most stable democracy in Africa. The 418,000 Cape Verdians inhabiting the archipelago are a Crioulo (Creole) society, with a rich culture based on their African-European heritage.
Our destination was the island of Santo Antão, nine miles to the west of São Vicente. We boarded Zodiacs to land in the small port of Porto Novo, where we began our exploration of the island. We drove up and across the island, through one of the most spectacular drives along ridges above deep ravines housing tiny settlements and cultivated terraces. We descended on the north-west side of the island to the small town of Ribeira Grande (Big River).
As soon as we left the vans, we were surrounded by uniformed school children as intrigued about us as we were about them. Throughout our stay, they took great delight in posing for photographs and viewing the immediate results made possible by digital photography.
Midday found some of us at Ponta do Sol watching local fishing boats arriving with the catch of the day. To our delight, lunch was a typical Cape Verdian dish called catchupa, a mixed bean and pork stew. As we enjoyed this very tasty dish, a local band provided entertainment. They sang mornas and coladeiras in Crioulo – one of their two languages. The people are bilingual: Portuguese is the language of commerce while Crioulo is the language of expression.
Upon returning to the National Geographic Endeavour, we were left with many varied impressions of our first day in the Cape Verde Islands. However, the main impression was the amazing opportunity we have had to experience at first hand a rich and vibrant culture.
Expectations ran high as we approached the island of São Vicente to pick up officials who would give us clearance to enter the Cape Verde Islands. São Vicente is home to the second largest city of the archipelago, Mindelo, a bustling port of some 67,000 inhabitants.
The Cape Verde Islands played a pivotal role in the trade between Europe, Africa, and the Americas. Settled by the Portuguese in the 15th century, they served as a human warehouse for the African slave labour much needed in the Portuguese sugar cane plantations of Brazil. Today, after independence from the Portuguese in 1975, the Republic of Cape Verde is considered by some to be the most stable democracy in Africa. The 418,000 Cape Verdians inhabiting the archipelago are a Crioulo (Creole) society, with a rich culture based on their African-European heritage.
Our destination was the island of Santo Antão, nine miles to the west of São Vicente. We boarded Zodiacs to land in the small port of Porto Novo, where we began our exploration of the island. We drove up and across the island, through one of the most spectacular drives along ridges above deep ravines housing tiny settlements and cultivated terraces. We descended on the north-west side of the island to the small town of Ribeira Grande (Big River).
As soon as we left the vans, we were surrounded by uniformed school children as intrigued about us as we were about them. Throughout our stay, they took great delight in posing for photographs and viewing the immediate results made possible by digital photography.
Midday found some of us at Ponta do Sol watching local fishing boats arriving with the catch of the day. To our delight, lunch was a typical Cape Verdian dish called catchupa, a mixed bean and pork stew. As we enjoyed this very tasty dish, a local band provided entertainment. They sang mornas and coladeiras in Crioulo – one of their two languages. The people are bilingual: Portuguese is the language of commerce while Crioulo is the language of expression.
Upon returning to the National Geographic Endeavour, we were left with many varied impressions of our first day in the Cape Verde Islands. However, the main impression was the amazing opportunity we have had to experience at first hand a rich and vibrant culture.
