Wiencke Island & Port Lockroy

This morning we went ashore on Wiencke Island, where hundreds of gentoo penguins are preparing to nest. We stepped onto the island bundled in warm clothing and rubber boots, while the feathered ‘locals’ popped up from the icy water, landed on pink webbed feet, and waddled up steep, snowy hills on very short legs. It’s obvious I’m the outsider in this environment.

Some of us wanted a leg stretch, so we walked uphill to a narrow plateau that had once been used as a landing strip. Planes would land here bringing supplies for the old British bases, including the one at nearby Port Lockroy. Many took time to sit and reflect, and savor views of the stunning peaks known as Seven Sisters. On our way back, we were surprised to see two crabeater seals on land, quite far from the water. We could only wonder why they had ventured so far onto land.

During lunch the ship repositioned, and in the afternoon we visited Jougla Point, where we found blue-eyed shags and gentoo penguins, as well as whale bones left from whaling days of the early 1900’s. We also visited Port Lockroy, a British site which was secretly established during WWII, and then was used as a scientific station until 1962. The restored buildings now serve as a museum, gift shop, even a post office (No ‘Express Service’ available)! We found friendly, familiar faces – Eleanor, Claire and Tudor. They’d hitched a ride to work with us.

They boarded our ship in Ushuaia, and we dropped them here a couple of days ago, to open the facility for the season. The museum will be their rustic home for four months. Gentoo penguins will be their close neighbors, raising chicks just inches from the building.