Lemaire Channel, Booth Island & Petermann Island
Those who woke before the morning announcement found that the sky was falling. Or perhaps it had already done so during the night. Visibility was next to nothing and large snowflakes were blowing around in the wind. The ocean was steel grey and Lemaire Channel was nowhere in sight. Over the course of an hour the clouds lifted slightly, the snow slowed to a mere sifting through the air, and a view of the infamous channel opened up before us. The steep, glacier-covered cliffs and mountainsides closed in on us and plunged down into the water as we moved ahead. Even though the peaks of the mountains were veiled in the low clouds you could feel them looming overhead. Most, I think, felt that sense of awe we all feel when passing through the Lemaire Channel.
At the far end, the ship rounded the corner and quickly was anchored at Booth Island.
Hikes ashore afforded stunning views of the “Iceberg Graveyard” below and all around. Little black spots, the Zodiac cruisers, were buzzing around between the monolithic icebergs. Grey water and grey sky made the bluest bergs seem to pop out of the landscape. It was a rather photogenic morning, despite the wind and snow (and occasional rain). Cruisers drove around ice arches and towers. Turquoise lagoons filled hollowed out centers of sunken blocks of glacial ice. The iceberg graveyard was full of hundreds of grounded bergs, each one unique and beautiful.
Our resident Oceanites researchers were excited for our next stop. Petermann Island was the location of the summer encampment of Oceanites for five summers. Here is the most southern colony of breeding Gentoo penguins. Here, finally, we got a view of penguin chicks. Just hatched Adelie penguin chicks were kept carefully tucked under the warm belly of their parent. We ooohhhed and aaahhhed as every now and then the parent sat up allowing us to see the two tiny, downy, grey chicks. There was even a feeding session as the chicks emerged and pecked quickly under the beak of the parent. The parent obliged by regurgitating a meal for each chick. It was a heartwarming way to end a rather cold and cloudy day.
