Port Lockroy, Cuverville Island
Early this morning the National Geographic Explorer transited the Lemaire Channel bound for Port Lockroy and our rendezvous with the folks of the British Antarctica Heritage Fund who are manning the former research base there. It is late season here in Antarctica, and all of the wildlife in this area knows it.
Gentoo penguin parents are out at sea foraging to feed the seemingly endless caloric uptake of their almost ready to fledge chicks. All semblance of order has broken down as penguin chicks accost any and all adults returning from the sea with crops full of krill. The scene is wonderful fodder for laughter as fluffy down-coated youngsters wander the beaches and rocky outcroppings noisily anticipating the return of their own parents, but also trying to trick any other adult into divulging food meant for their own offspring. Sitting and watching the antics allowed some people to be mistaken by these hungry chicks as possible food sources; penguin chicks would inspect camera bags or test zipper pulls with their beaks, much to the delight of all.
Blue-eyed shags drop from the sky as they return from trips at sea to feed their chicks as well. The cacophony is overwhelming, the activity seems frenetic, but of course the Antarctic fall and winter are only around the corner and it is vital to give youngsters the best chance to survive the coming cold as possible. Life is on full display here, and at the end of the summer the pressure is on to prepare for winter.
This afternoon we were able to hike, cruise, and kayak at Cuverville Island. Huge icebergs were grounded in the nearby Errera Channel, giving our Zodiacs plenty of photographic opportunities amongst the surreal shades of blue. Several minke whales as well as a mother and calf humpback were spotted in the bay, and Antarctic fur seals cavorted around the inflatable boats as we toured the ice. A couple of curious leopard seals nosed about our kayaks and inspected the entire goings-on with great interest.
At the end of the day we have come to realize just how privileged we are to be witness to such a myriad diversity and abundance of life here on the white continent. Stay tunes as the National Geographic Explorer turns her bow towards the South Shetland Islands tomorrow…
