Isles of Scilly, England

Our circumnavigation of the British Isles started in earnest today when we visited the Isles of Scilly, an archipelago jutting out from Cornwall into the North Atlantic. Although the group contains some 100 islands and skerries, only five of these are inhabited. Our destination was one of those five, Tresco.

The focus of our visit was the gardens that surround the ruined remains of Tresco Abbey. It may seem surprising that there would be any gardens at all in this exposed location, but the real surprise is that not only are they substantial and remarkably abundant, but the majority of trees, shrubs and plants come from tropical and semi-tropical regions and countries. The gardeners who gave us a guided tour of these remarkable gardens explained that, thanks to the warm waters of the North Atlantic Drift (or Gulf Stream), the islands rarely get frost and the temperate summers and winters allow the exotic flora to thrive.

When we set out to Tresco after breakfast the sea was veiled in a shifting fog, but by the time we returned to the ship for lunch, the fog had gone. The sparkling blue waters were flat, and the bright sunshine made the whole island scene look as if we had somehow been transported to the Caribbean or Mediterranean.

Mid afternoon we passed by the enormous stack of the Bishop Rock Lighthouse. Ian gave an on-deck commentary on the terrible tragedy suffered by the British Royal Navy when a substantial number of ships were lost and sailors drowned because the admiral of the fleet miscalculated their longitudinal position. It was this disaster that spurred the Navy Board to offer a large sum of money to anyone who could solve the problem of calculating longitude while at sea. Now the steady flashing light is a comfort to approaching sailors and a warning that they are approaching the treacherous waters of the Isles of Scilly.

Shortly after this great photo opportunity David Barnes gave the first presentation of our voyage, “The Peopling of the British and Irish Isles,” which put into context the complex mosaic that is the cultural and social history of these ancient lands.

This evening we sailed steadily northwest and left England behind as we headed for our destination for the next three days, the Republic of Ireland. To further help ‘set the scene’ our National Geographic photographer Jim Richardson gave an after dinner presentation called “Celtic Heart, Celtic Soul.”

Many more exciting and adventurous days lie ahead of us. May the ‘Weather Gods’ travel with us!