Capo Caccia & Alghero, Sardinia
The rugged island of Sardinia is the second biggest island in the Mediterranean Sea and despite the fact we only had the opportunity to experience a small part of it we were able to see clearly how different it is physically and culturally from Spain and the Balearic Islands. It is legally a part of the Republic of Italy but most Sardinians are quick to point out that as far as they are concerned they are Sardinian and not Italian.
The wind was blustery as we left for morning Zodiac cruises in the Capo Caccia area, causing a certain amount of ‘spray’ to join us in the boats, but it was worth it just to drive along the base of the 600’ high limestone cliffs. These cliffs have been hollowed out by wind and rain over the millennia to produce caves and arches of all shapes, sizes and depths; an ideal setting for the photographers amongst us.
After lunch the weather had calmed somewhat as we take a Zodiac shuttle across to the mainland and joined the waiting coaches for our afternoon excursion. The first stop was to the archaeological site of Nuraghi Palmavera. This is a 3,500 year-old stone tower structure which is surrounded by several small, circular satellite dwellings. These Nuraghi towers are unique to Sardinia and there are several hundred remaining around the island in various states of decay. From the Nuraghi we drove to the town of Alghero and noted the remarkably long, straight roads along which we were driving – evidence of the island’s early occupation by the Romans. We passed many large vineyards along the way and our guide explained the importance of vine and wine production to the island. Later at dinner we managed to sample two varieties of Sardinian wine along with our meal. Very good!
The old town of Alghero is very picturesque with narrow, winding streets, several medieval chapels, open squares and an abundance of cafes and bars. The beauty of the place was enhanced by the fact all the street lamps were draped in deep crimson coloured shades left over from the recent Easter processions through the town in which an image of the crucified Christ is carried from place to place, the women following behind, veiled and somber. The walk through the town took us to the port area where we boarded two large, comfortable motor vessels that took us at high speed back to Capo Caccia and back to the same limestone cliffs we had sailed along in the morning.
This time, however, we were able to disembark and enter into a magical labyrinth cave system known as “Neptune’s Grotto.” The interior of the enormous complex is a fascinating jungle of stalactites and stalagmites that have formed into beautiful sculptures, some small and delicate, some several metres high and fat in circumference, all delicately illuminated by soft artificial lighting. A really intriguing place and well worth the trip across the bay.
Thankfully by early evening the weather had changed completely and we had a picture-perfect sunset into the azure waters of the Mediterranean Sea as we headed for yet another island and another country, Corsica and France.
