Bonifacio, Corsica
Overnight we had run the length of Corsica from north to south and sunrise found us off dramatically high limestone cliffs with the town of Bonifacio perched securely atop, taunting would-be invaders with near-impregnable natural fortifications, to which, at the narrow harbor entrance some gun emplacements had been added, these recognizable from the movie The Guns of Navarone which was filmed on location here. Two different types of scenery therefore, yesterday’s granite replaced by limestone with its own distinctive flora much in evidence along the cliff top path, rosemary and juniper, purple orchids and asphodel amongst many others.
Our walk of the old city introduced us to Genoese fortifications and the inevitable house of Napoleon – he was stationed in Bonifacio when in charge of the second battalion of Corsican volunteers in the early stages of the French Revolutionary War. The town’s impressive natural harbor had clearly brought wealth to the town: patrician houses with balustrades, arcades, splendid portals and loggias testified to the affluence of their owners.
It was Sunday, and the church bells sounded evocatively as they called the dwindling band of the faithful to mid-morning mass even as the ferry from Sardinia, just a short sail away to southward, was disembarking the first foot passengers of the day. Souvenir shops began to open, later than usual in deference to Sunday, with products made from olive wood the popular gift of choice. Café terraces did a brisk trade in café au lait, pain au chocolat and fresh croissants.
After lunch we went astern out of the narrow harbor before turning to head for Sicily – our final island destination, with a full afternoon of presentations and a celebratory deck tea featuring French crepes by way of an intermission.
After a cool start – it has been a long, cold winter for the whole of Europe this year and spring is late arriving – it warmed up significantly and the decks were well occupied for a leisurely afternoon at sea after what had been a busy few days of exploration.
