Española Island
Some of us slept in this morning – until 0800 – and then enjoyed a delicious breakfast buffet. Nine guests were up by 0630 and had slipped into our small fleet of six bright yellow kayaks by 0700. They paddled for an hour on a flat, calm sea along the rocky northern shore of Española, escorted by leaping sea lions and thrilled by the lovely early morning sky and the fresh sea air.
Three Zodiacs of snorkelers set out to swim along the base of Gardner Islet. The water was amazingly clear, the visibility superb, and we thoroughly enjoyed the antics of a couple graceful and friendly sea lions and more looks at the colorful schools of tropical fish. Later, on the mile-long, brilliant white beach, we watched, photographed and exalted once again in the chance to get up close to wild sea lions of all ages. Huge barking beach masters patrolled the land/sea interface. When these dominant males came ashore, all the smaller male sea lions fled in a panic. We laughed, as before the bigger males showed up, they had been snuggling with the females. We watched two pups tussle; others were nursing, sleeping and swimming. One very curious two month old pup sniffed at feet and knees, and tickled with his whiskers.
The beach was absolutely gorgeous today! There were at least a couple hundred sea lions resting on the sand this morning. The sunny day, and luckily there was also a cooling breeze, lit up the bay and the water sparkled with an almost impossible turquoise color. Rowdy Española mocking birds, that are found only on this island in all the world, hopped on our backpacks and towels hoping to find something edible. Survivors on an inhospitable and arid island, they never stop searching for food and it is their curiosity and aggression that keeps them fed.
Reluctantly our guests let me coax them off the beautiful beach and back to the ship for lunch and our navigation to the afternoon visitor’s site. Our last visit of this week’s voyage began with a dry landing on a concrete pier and then a hike along a lava boulder-strewn mile and a half long trail. Of course we found more charming sea lions, and cheeky mocking birds; in addition there were green and red marine iguanas and large lava lizards that are endemic to Española Island. We found nesting blue-footed boobies, courting Nazca boobies, and several large waved albatross chicks. These juvenile birds were shedding the last of their gray baby down and, by flapping their six foot wings, were strengthening their flight muscles in preparation to leave the island. Within a few weeks all the albatross will be gone from Española. They spend the hot, rainy months of January through March feeding on the Humboldt Current and when they return to Galápagos, as the weather begins to cool, they start another breeding cycle.
Our week of exploration in these magical islands is at its end. We have seen things we never imagined we’d see and made friends we will never forget. The families and couples who traveled with us during this holiday week - we have been celebrating both Hanukah and Christmas together - have shared an unforgettable trip. A once in a lifetime experience!
Some of us slept in this morning – until 0800 – and then enjoyed a delicious breakfast buffet. Nine guests were up by 0630 and had slipped into our small fleet of six bright yellow kayaks by 0700. They paddled for an hour on a flat, calm sea along the rocky northern shore of Española, escorted by leaping sea lions and thrilled by the lovely early morning sky and the fresh sea air.
Three Zodiacs of snorkelers set out to swim along the base of Gardner Islet. The water was amazingly clear, the visibility superb, and we thoroughly enjoyed the antics of a couple graceful and friendly sea lions and more looks at the colorful schools of tropical fish. Later, on the mile-long, brilliant white beach, we watched, photographed and exalted once again in the chance to get up close to wild sea lions of all ages. Huge barking beach masters patrolled the land/sea interface. When these dominant males came ashore, all the smaller male sea lions fled in a panic. We laughed, as before the bigger males showed up, they had been snuggling with the females. We watched two pups tussle; others were nursing, sleeping and swimming. One very curious two month old pup sniffed at feet and knees, and tickled with his whiskers.
The beach was absolutely gorgeous today! There were at least a couple hundred sea lions resting on the sand this morning. The sunny day, and luckily there was also a cooling breeze, lit up the bay and the water sparkled with an almost impossible turquoise color. Rowdy Española mocking birds, that are found only on this island in all the world, hopped on our backpacks and towels hoping to find something edible. Survivors on an inhospitable and arid island, they never stop searching for food and it is their curiosity and aggression that keeps them fed.
Reluctantly our guests let me coax them off the beautiful beach and back to the ship for lunch and our navigation to the afternoon visitor’s site. Our last visit of this week’s voyage began with a dry landing on a concrete pier and then a hike along a lava boulder-strewn mile and a half long trail. Of course we found more charming sea lions, and cheeky mocking birds; in addition there were green and red marine iguanas and large lava lizards that are endemic to Española Island. We found nesting blue-footed boobies, courting Nazca boobies, and several large waved albatross chicks. These juvenile birds were shedding the last of their gray baby down and, by flapping their six foot wings, were strengthening their flight muscles in preparation to leave the island. Within a few weeks all the albatross will be gone from Española. They spend the hot, rainy months of January through March feeding on the Humboldt Current and when they return to Galápagos, as the weather begins to cool, they start another breeding cycle.
Our week of exploration in these magical islands is at its end. We have seen things we never imagined we’d see and made friends we will never forget. The families and couples who traveled with us during this holiday week - we have been celebrating both Hanukah and Christmas together - have shared an unforgettable trip. A once in a lifetime experience!
