Beauty in the Eye
Beginning another day in Galapagos is eye-opening, as thick dark clouds move over the highlands of Isabela Island. We move into our anchorage with a rugged coastline before us. This coastline seems similar to others that we have experienced however this one holds a dramatic geologic history. During the 1950’s, various square kilometers of this coastline were uplifted over four meters out of the ocean, trapping many creatures especially one of the largest coral reefs in the Galápagos.
The hike is long but well worth it for the wildlife along the coast that includes incredibly large marine iguanas, flightless cormorants, and penguins. We come upon the coral heads that took over a thousand years to reach the size we see. Inland we find a dried mangrove inlet that was left high and dry during the uplift and this is where we find a juvenile short eared owl that is but a few feet from us, curious in his diurnal behavior.
Returning to our landing beach we have one of the best surprises this journey as we are treated to five Galápagos tortoises in different stages of immensity. A swim at the beach is welcomed to cool us down and we are eventually surrounded by a group of four Galápagos penguins, one almost running into our snorkelers as it fished. A cool breeze starts to blow as we return to our floating home to continue our voyage.
The afternoon is upon us as we come into our second anchorage of the day at southern Isabela, Punta Moreno. Heavy rains greet us but they lift at the exact moment we start to disembark for our afternoon activities. Crystalline blue waters along the coast and dark green leaves from the mangroves present a black basalt lava flow that looks like that it was laid down yesterday. Those that chose this path may have thought twice as the lava flow is rough and uneven, but life soon starts to present itself.
We find small plants growing out of fresh rock and eventually we encounter an oasis of sorts in the middle of desolation. A small brackish pond and then another, luxuriant grass grows on the fringes of this indentation of the lava flow and then we start to hear strange noises. A whoop and a high-pitched screech precedes the bright pink flamingos we see foraging in this haven alongside blue-winged teals and common gallinules.
Returning to the ship from our hike or from another incredible Zodiac ride we are treated with a marine iguana lazing along the coast, passing storm petrels, and at last a pacific green sea turtle poking her head above the water for a breath of air.
Truly, what is beauty and when a species sees it, describes it as such? Maybe we can leave this sketch with the simple fact that the beauty of an eye and the life that it contains will always impress us.
