Santa Cruz Island
We woke to civilization for the first time in three days. The watery landscape is lined with white buildings and water taxis, and we realize once again that we are no longer alone in this amazing place. Shortly after breakfast we climb aboard the Zodiacs for a short five-minute ride to shore.
At the Charles Darwin Research Station we encountered tortoises (both babies and full grown adults). Unlike any other animal sanctuary I’ve ever seen, these animals will be repatriated to their original islands one day. We met Lonesome George, the last of his species, and the most famous tortoise in the world.
Following our visit to the Charles Darwin Research Station, we walked back through town and enjoyed the local handicrafts. The small fish market in town had its usual customers: those shopping for dinner later, and those ready to eat right away: pelicans, sea lions, frigates and further along the dock, an ambling marine iguana.
Before lunch we walked through a lava tunnel. We made our way into the darkness and wandered through, occasionally bending low to avoid bumping the heads. Ernesto told us a story in the lava tunnel; years previously, before electric lights graced the floors of the tunnels, he’d traversed the tunnel in complete darkness and come across a stalagmite of lava on the ground. All alone and in blackness he’d knelt and drummed on the stalagmite, with the sound echoing around him, he named this spot ‘the chapel.’ He played the stalagmite for us, and we stood a few moments before continuing on and going to lunch, where we had a delicious buffet and a view of the western side of Santa Cruz.
A small group inspired by the first day decided to brave the rain and head to “Playa de los Alemanes.” The rain overcame the initial motivation of the group and we headed to a covered terrace to enjoy local beer and a game inspired by one of the passengers. Following our beer, the group made our way to the beach. The water was warm with large waves breaking out past the bay and mangroves lining the shores. While the group was enjoying the water a marine iguana came floating along the tide to eventually swim to the shore.
