Bartholomew & Santiago Islands
Today was the last day of an absolutely unforgettable expedition through the Galápagos Islands in the wake of the famous naturalist Charles Darwin and, like him, we ended up in the central part of the archipelago on the island of Santiago. Although he spent nine days here and we only spent one afternoon, I think we can safely say that we are leaving this magical place with the same sense of wonder and awe that he did – although possibly not an insight as world-changing as his!
We started off the day with a pre-breakfast outing to a small parasitic volcano just off the eastern coast of Santiago, an islet called Bartholomew. It well deserves its nickname, “textbook of geology,” as being located in the rain-shadow of two of the Galápagos’ largest islands it receives very little moisture and thus very little plant growth obscures the fascinating geological features that it is made up of: lava flows, volcanic ash, bombs, lava tubes, spatter cones, eroded tuff cones and more.
During the hike up to the top, where we were to witness the most spectacular views in the archipelago, we got to admire how only the very toughest of plants, true pioneer species, are able to eke out a living here; gradually transforming the substrate into more suitable soil for less well adapted plant species. Among these we found the grey mat plant, Tiquilia nesiotica, growing on the slopes of volcanic ash and the hardy little lava cactus, the endemic genus Brachicereus nesioticus, growing in cracks and fissures in the lava itself.
The hike was followed by a hearty breakfast, then the opportunity to spend time on the beach, strolling, swimming, snorkelling or riding in the glass-bottom boat.
Mid-afternoon found us weighing anchor on the western coast of Santiago, an area known as James Bay, where we disembarked for one last glorious walk along the indented shoreline: observing what Darwin observed, and walking where he walked.
We could not help feeling a little sad at having to say goodbye to the creatures we were beginning to become so familiar with: the Galápagos sea lions and their distant relatives, the Galápagos fur seals (which we finally got to see on land here, rather than from rocking Zodiacs!), the marine iguanas, the seabirds and shore birds, and not to forget the inquisitive land birds, including the colourful little yellow warbler that brightened every one of the multiple ecosystems we visited during the week.
Although it is hard not to feel sad, it is also comforting to know that during times of stress, or when everything gets a little too much, then our minds can find refuge and solace in the memory of these truly enchanted islands.
Today was the last day of an absolutely unforgettable expedition through the Galápagos Islands in the wake of the famous naturalist Charles Darwin and, like him, we ended up in the central part of the archipelago on the island of Santiago. Although he spent nine days here and we only spent one afternoon, I think we can safely say that we are leaving this magical place with the same sense of wonder and awe that he did – although possibly not an insight as world-changing as his!
We started off the day with a pre-breakfast outing to a small parasitic volcano just off the eastern coast of Santiago, an islet called Bartholomew. It well deserves its nickname, “textbook of geology,” as being located in the rain-shadow of two of the Galápagos’ largest islands it receives very little moisture and thus very little plant growth obscures the fascinating geological features that it is made up of: lava flows, volcanic ash, bombs, lava tubes, spatter cones, eroded tuff cones and more.
During the hike up to the top, where we were to witness the most spectacular views in the archipelago, we got to admire how only the very toughest of plants, true pioneer species, are able to eke out a living here; gradually transforming the substrate into more suitable soil for less well adapted plant species. Among these we found the grey mat plant, Tiquilia nesiotica, growing on the slopes of volcanic ash and the hardy little lava cactus, the endemic genus Brachicereus nesioticus, growing in cracks and fissures in the lava itself.
The hike was followed by a hearty breakfast, then the opportunity to spend time on the beach, strolling, swimming, snorkelling or riding in the glass-bottom boat.
Mid-afternoon found us weighing anchor on the western coast of Santiago, an area known as James Bay, where we disembarked for one last glorious walk along the indented shoreline: observing what Darwin observed, and walking where he walked.
We could not help feeling a little sad at having to say goodbye to the creatures we were beginning to become so familiar with: the Galápagos sea lions and their distant relatives, the Galápagos fur seals (which we finally got to see on land here, rather than from rocking Zodiacs!), the marine iguanas, the seabirds and shore birds, and not to forget the inquisitive land birds, including the colourful little yellow warbler that brightened every one of the multiple ecosystems we visited during the week.
Although it is hard not to feel sad, it is also comforting to know that during times of stress, or when everything gets a little too much, then our minds can find refuge and solace in the memory of these truly enchanted islands.
