Inian Islands, George Island & Elfin Cove

This morning we cruised through the Inian Islands, slowing to look at humpback whales, sea otters and Steller sea lions. These waters are so rich and productive; before breakfast was served, we had already seen a couple dozen marine mammals.

We continued west to George Island, a small, hilly island situated at the edge of the Pacific Ocean. Hikers explored the island’s forest trails. They saw spring wildflowers, fat banana slugs, and a rufous hummingbird. Zodiac cruises explored the island’s rocky perimeter. Pelagic cormorants and pigeon guillemots perched high up on small ledges in narrow rock crevices. When they took flight, they had to beat their wings furiously to fly; being heavy is advantageous for diving after fish, but it has its price! Orange and purple sea stars clung to the rocks at the mid-tide line, and enormous fronds of bull kelp floated at the water’s surface. A tall, rock sea arch made a dramatic frame for views of Brady Glacier and the snow-covered Fairweather Range.

As we finished lunch, Mary Jo Lord-Wild spoke to us about life in Elfin Cove. The boardwalk community with the safe and cozy cove had only 12 residents stay through last winter! She talked about the benefits of raising her three children there, and is sad that the school has since closed. Living in a tiny community, her family also learned the value of volunteerism; if they did not volunteer to do things for the community, things didn’t get done. We went ashore in the tiny hamlet, and walked on the boardwalk that rims the cove and connects everything: the Post Office, Museum, shop, homes, fishing lodges and docks.

The ship repositioned to the Inian Islands, and we boarded Zodiacs to visit a Steller sea lion haul out. The rounded mound of rock had more than 150 sea lions on it, and while some were lunging towards one another, roaring in intimidating tones, others were sound asleep, draped over rocks and each other.

As dinner was finishing, Captain Kay introduced the galley and dining room staff. Tonight we are anchored south of Glacier Bay, and early tomorrow morning we will enter the bay.