Chatham Straits and Baranof Island, Southeast Alaska
Yesterday evening we boarded the National Geographic Sea Bird in Sitka, Alaska and our adventure was underway. Fifty-nine women have gathered from points around the globe, brought together by Olivia Travel, to explore the waters and islands of Coastal Alaska, and they mean to do it ALL! In the fading light of the evening (at 10:00 p.m.!), we followed a bright, full moon, low over the horizon, through the narrow waterways of Olga, Neva and Peril straits to reach the protected water of Alaska's Inside Passage.
The morning brought Coastal Alaska at its finest – the sun shining off snow-covered peaks on Baranof Island, gradually melting the winter's accumulation of snow to fuel myriad streams and waterfalls. The shallow draft of the National Geographic Sea Bird allows her to go where others fear to enter. We poked into a small cove to admire Kasnyku Falls, and then proceeded to Kelp Bay, always scanning the water and shoreline for wildlife. We were soon rewarded for our effort. Sharp eyes spotted bears on a far beach. We could make out a larger and two somewhat smaller bears – a sow and two yearlings or, perhaps, two-year old cubs.
The "ABC Islands" of Admiralty, Baranof, and Chichagof support large populations of coastal brown bears. (Some call them grizzlies, but this term is best reserved for the somewhat smaller brown bears of the interior.) The bears have emerged from their winter dens in the mountains above us, and they are hungry! They feed on plants in coastal meadows and whatever they can find in the intertidal zone. Later, when salmon return from the ocean to spawn, the bears will gather along streams and rivers to feast, but now food is harder to find and they are more solitary.
Shortly after this encounter, another group of three, a sow with two tiny cubs born this past winter, was spotted on a snowfield high above us, the cubs running and tumbling over the snow, the mother looking on more sedately. Six brown bears before breakfast - a brilliant start to our trip. Later in the morning, we had several encounters with groups of Dall's porpoise - stocky, fast-swimming, black and white marine mammals.
We spent our afternoon at Hanus Bay on Catherine Island. Our fleet of red and yellow kayaks awaited us on the beach, and we propelled ourselves over the quiet water of the inner bay. Walks along a recently upgraded trail introduced us to the mysteries of the temperate rainforest, here in its old-growth state, undisturbed by humankind. Giant Sitka spruce and Western hemlock trees towered above us. Mosses and lichens adorn the branches and cover the ground with a rich, green carpet. Blueberry bushes bear delicate flowers that promise rewards to come, and bright yellow skunk cabbages poke through the moss. This land belongs to wild Alaska. Our visit is brief, and calls of "Yo, bear" warned the bears of our intrusion into their homeland.
Not only does the National Geographic Sea Bird serve superb cuisine, its dining room offers a magnificent and ever-changing view. This evening the view was of humpback whales just outside the windows. It was a bit chaotic as diners rushed from side to side, and from dining room to decks above. Fortunately, the whales remained with us. We gathered on the deck for close views of several whales busily lunge-feeding after their long journey north from their winter stay around the Hawaiian Islands.
