Isla Danzante & Isla del Carmen

Rose-washed clouds framed the ragged crest of Isla Danzante as the ship’s anchor dropped in Honeymoon Cove. Just after breakfast, hikers scrambled up the slopes in search of fantastic views of the cove and the Sierra de la Giganta range of the peninsula just across the channel. Although sparsely vegetated, the desert was flushed green with new leaves from recent rainfall. Prickly pears, organ pipes and cardons were the dominant cacti. A special sighting was the newly emerging flowers of the hedgehog cactus shown in the photograph. The delicate pink petals contrasted with the coarse appearance of the rest of this well-armed succulent. At mid-morning the emphasis switched from walking to kayaking and snorkeling. From water level the sheltered bays and scenic shorelines took on a whole new perspective. Beneath the surface a myriad of fishes flashed in the crystal-clear water. Schools of sergeant majors and scissortail damsels congregated near the snorkel boat, and blue-black king angelfish drifted by with their conspicuous yellow-orange tails.

Not far from Danzante lies another island within the Loreto Bay National Park. The much larger Isla del Carmen has been a site for commercial salt extraction starting in 1697 when Jesuit missionaries discovered the extensive salt flats just behind what is now called Salinas Bay. During the afternoon we stopped at this interesting spot for more snorkeling and to investigate the old town and salt operation. The salt is 99.6% pure, so was particularly valuable. At one time, salt from Isla del Carmen was carried to Alaska to preserve sea otter pelts. Much of this precious cargo made its way to San Francisco in the United States, and some was transported as far as Greece. By 1978 the project was no longer considered to be commercially feasible and in 1983 it closed for good. We wandered among the aging buildings and abandoned equipment, then reached the evaporation ponds where salt crystals encrusted the water’s edge. One of the naturalist-led outings was specifically tailored for photographers. At dusk the last Zodiacs pulled away from the broad sand beach littered with shells to return to our floating home aboard the National Geographic Sea Bird.