Isla San Francisco

With bottlenose dolphins riding the bow wave, the National Geographic Sea Bird entered the sheltered cove of Halfmoon Bay at Isla San Francisco. Hillsides of volcanic rocks flanked a wide crescent of white sand. After a few morning briefings and drills, we prepared to board Zodiacs for the opportunity to snorkel. Someone spotted a whale in the distance! Upon further investigation, we learned that there were two fin whales. They rose repeatedly as we watched from the stern of the ship. Several times one rolled on its side and exposed half of its tail. It looked somewhat like the dorsal fin of a giant shark. Fin whales occur in the Gulf of California year-round, but it is always a special treat to watch them.

Eventually, we turned our attention to snorkeling. An entirely different world unfolded beneath the surface. Schools of grunts swam past us without concern. A yellow and black barberfish moved busily through the reef. This species is named for its behavior of grooming other fishes. Green morays peered out from their hiding places with fanged mouths agape, as rather clumsy humans splashed along above them.

After lunch, Zodiacs carried us ashore. The fast-paced hikers climbed up a rugged canyon to a high point with dramatic views of the crescent-shaped beach and deep blue water so far below. Moderate and leisure hikers explored the fascinating desert environment as well as a salt-influenced habitat a short distance behind the beach. Some walkers wandered on their own in search of beach treasures. On the far side of the island lies an area rich with intertidal life. The Undersea Specialist had arrived in advance to place invertebrates in containers for a short while, so that hikers could examine them closely. It was fun to see the miniature suction cups, called tube feet, on the underside of the sea stars. Crabs, slate pencil and other urchins, sea cucumbers, nudibranchs and several small fish awaited our curious eyes. A favorite was the speedy brittle star with its flailing arms.

Brightly colored kayaks waited on the sand for anyone interested in seeing the area from a different perspective. Even those new to this experience caught on quickly to this wonderful form of exercise and discovery.

The sun sank behind the mountains of the Baja Peninsula once we were all back aboard. After a day of watching fish and whales, hiking, and kayaking, we were ready to enjoy a relaxing evening at our quiet anchorage.