Bay of Loreto National Park & Isla Monserrat

It was an Easter Sunday like no other. The morning started with whale watching, and then led into an afternoon of hiking, snorkeling and kayaking within the national marine park not far from the town of Loreto. A fin whale, the second largest of all the whales, rose repeatedly off the bow. It was so exciting to spot the first large marine mammal of the voyage, but it was the pilot whales sighted later in the morning that captured our imaginations.

Their bulbous dark heads and rounded dorsal fins are unlike those of any other cetaceans. These creatures are related to killer whales but are mostly black and considerably more slender than their more well-known counterparts. Squid form an important part of their diet, and at times they dive to depths of over a thousand feet in search of prey. We stayed with this group of fascinating animals for some time before the ship turned towards the afternoon destination at Isla Monserrat.

The ship anchored beside Isla Monserrat near a quiet stretch of eroded white bluffs and reddish volcanic rock. Fossilized shells protruded from the pale sedimentary layers that surrounded the beach landing. Kayakers paddled through the clear water and watched Sally lightfoot crabs scuttle for safety as the boats approached. Snorkelers explored the undersea world and discovered a variety of species, including the barred porcupinefish, reef cornetfish and colorful parrotfish.

Meanwhile, hikers wandered up a narrow arroyo for a great introduction to the Sonoran desert landscape. Scarlet flowers of palo adan attracted several Costa’s hummingbirds. A pair of cardinals flashed red within the arid landscape, and two ospreys circled and called overhead. Now and then a colorful lizard raced across our path. Many types of cacti grew within the narrow canyon of rugged rocks. Giant cardons and black-dotted organ pipes bore flower buds almost ready to burst with delicate petals. They, along with the prickly cholla, silver-whiskered old-man and the diminutive nipple cacti thrived in this inhospitable terrain.

By late afternoon it was time to return to the ship and motor north. The sun dropped behind the crest of the Sierra de la Giganta after an eventful first day on our Baja California adventure aboard the National Geographic Sea Bird.