Bahia Amortajada, Isla San Jose & Punta Dispensa, Isla Espiritu Santo

After a comfortable night at anchor in Half Moon Bay, we set out for sunrise under the colorful cliffs of Cabeza de Mechudo on the Baja peninsula. The rich light of sunrise and sunset is one of the most magical aspects of an expedition into the Sea of Cortez, and the ever-changing compositions lend a dream-like feeling to every voyage.

As we steadied our lenses for the deepening light on the green and white sedimentary layers, our attention was diverted by the expedition staff cries of “Two blows at 1230 off the starboard bow!” Through considerable chop and wind we realized we were in the midst of a scattered group of whales that had no consistent direction or surfacing patterns. After many surfacing, some good sightings, and intense scrutiny, we confirmed that this was an unusual grouping of Bryde’s whales, which is a smaller baleen whale that is usually seen alone or in pairs or very small groups. It was unusual to be in the middle of this group of at least eight, who were accompanied by a school of common dolphins in a tight and compact feeding formation.

Down to breakfast as we departed for our anchorage, and the rest of the morning was a world apart from the rocky island terrain that we’d explored thus far in the voyage. A high tide on a new moon gave us plenty of water to explore the Amortajada mangrove system on the southwest side of Isla San Jose. The deep greenery of the mangroves was a shocking contrast to the reds, oranges, and yellows of the island rock we’d been seeing, and a Zodiac cruise through the confusing channels felt almost like a jungle cruise. These mangrove systems are incredibly important nurseries for many fish and marine invertebrate species, and important feeding grounds for wading and shorebirds.

In the afternoon we cruised south to the southern tip of Isla Espiritu Santo, for a very relaxing afternoon walking along a white-sand beach and snorkeling. The day finished with a magical sunset sky, as the galley set up a barbecue dinner on the beach. How often in this day and age do you get a chance to sit under the stars on a deserted island with a bonfire, great food, wine and company? Just another normal day in the Sea of Cortez . . .